How will I know if the sensor is damaged? I have a spare from my old engine.

As an update everything is together. Just putting little bits and pieces together. The fluids and go.

 

I did notice that both plus were missing from the front of my transmission... That cover the inspection holes.Internet is failing me for replacements... Any suggestions anyone?

 

are you talking about the rubber plus to get to the flexplate bolts? if so they can be had from LR, i would check a local supply house for rubber freeze plugs the same size.

 

I did some googling on the subject and some suggestions were to use the bottom of a soup can or some sheet rubber and gasket maker to cover the holes. I did find the land Rover part number for the plugs, but that seems like a lot of trouble and expense for something that isn't designed to keep out anything other than stones, so I will just fab something. Probably NOT the soup cans.

 

Check out rubber or temperare freeze plugs here is a link to Google just match up the size. the factory ones swell when they get oil on them and never want to go back in.

 

Okay for whoever might read this thread all of the foregoing worked and I started my engine today. One last tip... It was turning over but not starting on seven year old gas. The hazards were fast flashing, and all of the dash lights were on. I used a code reader and got a few minor ones, googled them, and checked a few things. In the end, I literally lucked into resetting the inertial switch on the firewall. "What's this?". Click. Engine started.

Thanks to those who gave me such great advice. My biggest repair prior to replacing the entire engine was removing and replacing the alternator. I am not a mechanic.

Also, for posterity, the entire project was managed with a mallet, some screwdrivers, a set of short and deep metric sockets, metric wrenches, a cheap pump (for fluids), an engine crane that I got on craigslist for 150 dollars, and some miscellaneous gaskets, spark plugs, and filters. Hinged ratchets (from harbor freight) were cheap and helpful, as were different length extensions. I needed one allen wrench. I did strip one bolt and had to melt it with a torch, but I got help with that. If I can do this, anyone can.

A 3/4 inch long wrench is helpful for the motor mounts... Just to turn them close to snug (then 18mm, which is HARD to find ay harbor freight). A 1 inch is necessary to loosen the fan nut. Some screw/bolt extractors help when you use too much macho on a bolt.

Last but not least, the RAVE manual was helpful, but not so much as my friend Marcus. It is definitely a two person job. Flashlights of every description are necessary. A perfectly sized paint can and the mallet will set your new main seal.

If I do it again I will have racheting wrenches and keep better track of where the bolts, nuts and screws go. I would also do it indoors. Weather has been a factor. I would also not assume ANYTHING. I made a guess about the wires to the coils and got to raise and lower the engine again as a result. I've blocked a few other "do overs," but the solution is clearly to CHECK whenever you have to guess because the answer is rarely intuitive.

The most ridiculous thing I saw and would like to change, from a layman's perspective, is the location of the coils. I would like to relocate them. The hard plastic lines break easily with age and cold. A poorly functioning torque wrench is a recipe for disaster. Get a good one for twice the price of a cheap one that breaks hard to replace bolts.

Best,

Charlie V