Fender Trimming
#24
11-11-2015, 01:59 PM
37's on a full bodied Rover is pretty much teetering on the edge of diminishing returns.
A) It won't be cheap. No two ways about it. You'll need lots of diff and suspension parts to make it work. You'd be VERY lucky is that stuff alone(not including tires and wheels) came in under $3000.
B) You'll be set up to tackle some really hard trails. Problem is D2's have a big phat *** and big body. If you hit the hard trails that warrant 37" tires you WILL see body damage.
C) 4.10's on a truck that is your daily driver and running 37's will be painful. Have you run the Ashcroft Gearing Calculator? Do they have reverse cut gears for the front?
Last edited by fishEH; 11-11-2015 at 02:01 PM.
#25
11-11-2015, 02:29 PM
Well that's what conventional wisdom says, sure, but I've heard and disproved quite a bit of conventional wisdom. I understand stock diffs are weak, but with a true trac in the front and welded in the rear, assuming you're (reasonably) easy on it, I think it can work fine.
I expect body damage. That, along with the trimming, are why I'll be using my extra set of body panels on the truck. The others can be "show" panels when the truck is 30 years old
Yes, it says in the description that they do have the reverse cut front.
Here's what the Ashcroft calculator had to say. Doesn't look too bad to me.
First is the 32" tires with factory gears:
Second, here is the 37s with 4.11 gears:
Very close numbers. In fact, it's showing the 37s with 4.11s being a lower final drive (More revolutions per mile) than the 32s on stock gears.
I expect body damage. That, along with the trimming, are why I'll be using my extra set of body panels on the truck. The others can be "show" panels when the truck is 30 years old
Yes, it says in the description that they do have the reverse cut front.
Here's what the Ashcroft calculator had to say. Doesn't look too bad to me.
First is the 32" tires with factory gears:
Second, here is the 37s with 4.11 gears:
Very close numbers. In fact, it's showing the 37s with 4.11s being a lower final drive (More revolutions per mile) than the 32s on stock gears.
Tight budget build and 37" tires are mutually exclusive.
37's on a full bodied Rover is pretty much teetering on the edge of diminishing returns.
A) It won't be cheap. No two ways about it. You'll need lots of diff and suspension parts to make it work. You'd be VERY lucky is that stuff alone(not including tires and wheels) came in under $3000.
B) You'll be set up to tackle some really hard trails. Problem is D2's have a big phat *** and big body. If you hit the hard trails that warrant 37" tires you WILL see body damage.
C) 4.10's on a truck that is your daily driver and running 37's will be painful. Have you run the Ashcroft Gearing Calculator? Do they have reverse cut gears for the front?
37's on a full bodied Rover is pretty much teetering on the edge of diminishing returns.
A) It won't be cheap. No two ways about it. You'll need lots of diff and suspension parts to make it work. You'd be VERY lucky is that stuff alone(not including tires and wheels) came in under $3000.
B) You'll be set up to tackle some really hard trails. Problem is D2's have a big phat *** and big body. If you hit the hard trails that warrant 37" tires you WILL see body damage.
C) 4.10's on a truck that is your daily driver and running 37's will be painful. Have you run the Ashcroft Gearing Calculator? Do they have reverse cut gears for the front?
#26
11-11-2015, 02:50 PM
Former Sponsor
I sell Ashcroft R&P for $350. You will most likely end up spending more than the $150 you are saving by trying to make P38 diffs work, not to mention like I said earlier about their carriers being weaker. And if your thought of going to the P38 diff because the R&P was stronger still stands, why bother changing housings just to change the gearing anyways? You wont save any money this way.
#27
11-11-2015, 03:10 PM
Righto, which I was asking if the P38 gears worked in the D2 housing. If they don't then I suppose I'll save up to get the set from you which was the original plan until I found these.
It is a great deal, and yes they are Ashcroft. But They are only for the short diffs like P38 and Defender rear.
I sell Ashcroft R&P for $350. You will most likely end up spending more than the $150 you are saving by trying to make P38 diffs work, not to mention like I said earlier about their carriers being weaker. And if your thought of going to the P38 diff because the R&P was stronger still stands, why bother changing housings just to change the gearing anyways? You wont save any money this way.
I sell Ashcroft R&P for $350. You will most likely end up spending more than the $150 you are saving by trying to make P38 diffs work, not to mention like I said earlier about their carriers being weaker. And if your thought of going to the P38 diff because the R&P was stronger still stands, why bother changing housings just to change the gearing anyways? You wont save any money this way.
#28
11-12-2015, 02:14 AM
This one kinda scares me, I'll be honest. There's a big part of me that wants to keep the body of my truck totally stock. There's no putting parts back together (at least, not as well as factory) after you've cut them apart. That said, I do have an extra body that I could swipe the fenders and rear doors and paint/trim those. Anyway...
I found out you can buy 37/12.50r16.5 tires for around $100 each from military auctions. They come off the Humvees! What a steal for that size tire! And truthfully, I love the thought of 37s on ole Frankie. That said, obviously there will be trimming required. It also appears you can't find 16.5s in our bolt pattern, so that would require either A.)Buying a set of these and having BORA make up a set of 1.5" spacer adapters (something like these but hub centric). B.) and axle swap, or C.) Buying a set of 17s and having a machine shop turn them down half an inch. It would also require quite a lot of trimming even on my 3.5" lift. I figure probably 3" worth at the top of the fenders and maybe 3.5" on the sides as well as very possibly longer bump stops. I'm already going to be welding the rear diff and installing CDL very soon, and I'm thinking a limited slip in the front with 4.11 gears all around as well as, very likely, HD axles in the future.
Anyway, I'd love to hear thoughts, comments, concerns, and ideas.
Edit: I'm looking at gears and I see some that say "P38 Type Diff". Is there a difference between the RRC, D1, P38, and D2 type diffs? Which will fit which?
I found out you can buy 37/12.50r16.5 tires for around $100 each from military auctions. They come off the Humvees! What a steal for that size tire! And truthfully, I love the thought of 37s on ole Frankie. That said, obviously there will be trimming required. It also appears you can't find 16.5s in our bolt pattern, so that would require either A.)Buying a set of these and having BORA make up a set of 1.5" spacer adapters (something like these but hub centric). B.) and axle swap, or C.) Buying a set of 17s and having a machine shop turn them down half an inch. It would also require quite a lot of trimming even on my 3.5" lift. I figure probably 3" worth at the top of the fenders and maybe 3.5" on the sides as well as very possibly longer bump stops. I'm already going to be welding the rear diff and installing CDL very soon, and I'm thinking a limited slip in the front with 4.11 gears all around as well as, very likely, HD axles in the future.
Anyway, I'd love to hear thoughts, comments, concerns, and ideas.
Edit: I'm looking at gears and I see some that say "P38 Type Diff". Is there a difference between the RRC, D1, P38, and D2 type diffs? Which will fit which?
#30
11-12-2015, 09:45 AM
It looks awesome. Did you actually end up fitting them or seeing them fitted?
Take an angle grinder to the fenders, rock sliders, and bumper, maybe some to the inner fender on the rear. Remove the plastic inner fender on the front. Throw on some tube doors, maybe a slight trim on the rear full door for winter driving. Looks awesome though.
However, taking into consideration ZG has said about the tires and what I've read online in conjunction, I probably would look at a different type of tire.
Then again, maybe I'd be ok with just throwing on some 35/12.50s and minor trimming. I really wish you could get 35/10.50 radials in the states. Who knows right now, it will be a while before I can afford tires and gears anyway. I do love the look of the 37s. Who knows. I'll be sure to update this thread next time I buy tires. I'll probably need a set in 25k miles.
Here's a link to the follow up:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...trimmed-76488/
Take an angle grinder to the fenders, rock sliders, and bumper, maybe some to the inner fender on the rear. Remove the plastic inner fender on the front. Throw on some tube doors, maybe a slight trim on the rear full door for winter driving. Looks awesome though.
However, taking into consideration ZG has said about the tires and what I've read online in conjunction, I probably would look at a different type of tire.
Then again, maybe I'd be ok with just throwing on some 35/12.50s and minor trimming. I really wish you could get 35/10.50 radials in the states. Who knows right now, it will be a while before I can afford tires and gears anyway. I do love the look of the 37s. Who knows. I'll be sure to update this thread next time I buy tires. I'll probably need a set in 25k miles.
Here's a link to the follow up:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...trimmed-76488/
Last edited by Alex_M; 11-14-2015 at 11:27 PM.
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