My recent engine tick problem and the fix
#33
07-05-2018, 05:39 AM
Pro Wrench
I imagine in less than an hour you could have all the parts off and have the rockers in your hand.
No guarantee it's the issue either.
#34
07-05-2018, 10:10 AM
Fair enough, but I have buy everything in US dollars with crappy exchange rate, so it starts getting expensive fast. I was thinking more proactive as I don't currently have an issue.
#35
07-05-2018, 01:18 PM
Really looking forward to trying this, my PS gets randomly stiff sometimes while I’m turning, just started last month. I’ve been trying to figure out the tick from my engine since I got it, after doing everything but checking the sleeves I gave up and figured it was just that. It’s starting to make sense that it would be the power steering pump as it’s from the DS of the engine and I already checked under the valve cover on that side and other than a bit of gunk build up which I cleaned it was fine. Time to go hunting for a new pump... I’ll confirm wether that was the source of my tick when I change out my pump. Hopefully by the end of this month.
#36
07-05-2018, 01:26 PM
Pro Wrench
From what I've read, the 4.0/4.6 never had a slipped liner issue as this casting has a stop on the bottom to prevent that. It was earlier blocks in the 3L range that had the slipping issue.
The primary issue on the 4/4.6 blocks is a thin water jacket wall leading to cracking in the event of a severe overheat, which can only be fixed with flanged cylinder sleeves and an o-ring at the bottom.
The o-ring has always bewildered me though, I mean how are you supposed to put an o-ring into a 300 degree F block with an interference fit and keep it intact?
The primary issue on the 4/4.6 blocks is a thin water jacket wall leading to cracking in the event of a severe overheat, which can only be fixed with flanged cylinder sleeves and an o-ring at the bottom.
The o-ring has always bewildered me though, I mean how are you supposed to put an o-ring into a 300 degree F block with an interference fit and keep it intact?
Last edited by Jeff Blake; 07-05-2018 at 01:29 PM.
#37
07-05-2018, 02:08 PM
From what I've read, the 4.0/4.6 never had a slipped liner issue as this casting has a stop on the bottom to prevent that. It was earlier blocks in the 3L range that had the slipping issue.
The primary issue on the 4/4.6 blocks is a thin water jacket wall leading to cracking in the event of a severe overheat, which can only be fixed with flanged cylinder sleeves and an o-ring at the bottom.
The o-ring has always bewildered me though, I mean how are you supposed to put an o-ring into a 300 degree F block with an interference fit and keep it intact?
The primary issue on the 4/4.6 blocks is a thin water jacket wall leading to cracking in the event of a severe overheat, which can only be fixed with flanged cylinder sleeves and an o-ring at the bottom.
The o-ring has always bewildered me though, I mean how are you supposed to put an o-ring into a 300 degree F block with an interference fit and keep it intact?
The liner can move up on a 4.6.
This has been proven by cylinder markings on the bottom of the head gasket.
Slipped liners may not be as common as thought, but it Does really happen.
After having my engine apart and rebuilding it, it did not appear to have any slipped liners...but I pinned all 8 anyway.
#38
07-05-2018, 03:06 PM
Strike two... I had a block fail through the water jacket and that engine never once overheated, much less severely overheated... You don't need to overheat a 4.6 to have the block become porous at the thin water jackets around cylinders 4/6 and 3/5. It seems just the normal expansion and contraction will do it in some of these thin blocks. This one was a factory replacement 4.6 that lasted 170k ish.
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