Originally Posted by Alex_M

I just saw this reply.

That's good info. I end up towing a LOT so I guess I'll probably end up with the 4.56s. Gotta get that axle breaking torque transfer.

Originally Posted by Sixpack577

Does that have a galvanized frame!?

Originally Posted by JohnHZ3

Last year I towed a car on a two axle flatbed from Southern California to Northern California and back. Didn't break any speed records and the rear springs definitely compress a bit with the trailer. With the lift the Rover is not exactly the ideal tow vehicle but it did okay.

Originally Posted by JohnHZ3

Yes it does.

Originally Posted by The Deputy

Yeah, looks like it came with a very nice "passenger seat" option, too.

Also, looks like your car is a little to far forward on the trailer, by looking at fender to wheel clearance. Definitely could move it back a few inches to level load over trailer axles, and in turn help your rovers suspension immensely...and it will pull so much nicer.

Brian.

Originally Posted by Sixpack577

Did you raise the body off the frame on a lift?
Any details on the swap?

Originally Posted by JohnHZ3

I have been planning on doing this for a few years and finally got around to it thanks in part to this thread. The rear door was already damaged prior to my ownership and was difficult to close. The tire is 315/75R16 which is obviously way too heavy to be mounted to the door. I looked into all the parts offered for sale but decided none were exactly what I wanted. I liked the bushings of the Iron Pig spindle and the dual shear bracket of the Comp 4x4 version. I also liked the idea of a sleeve welded into the bumper rather than welding the spindle in place. This will allow for easy replacement or removal of the spindle in the unlikely event in gets damaged.

After measuring numerous times I drilled through the top and bottom of the bumper using a 2" hole saw. Then using an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel I connected the two circular cuts. A piece of 2" OD 1-1/2" ID tubing was tack welded as squarely as possible into the cutout. The hinge pin is 1-1/2" diameter steel. The carrier pivot is 2-1/4" OD 1-3/4" ID tubing with bronze bushings inserted (which were removed and replaced with new ones after welding). The frame is constructed of 3" x 1-1/2" (1/8 wall) tubing and 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" (1/8 wall) tubing. I added a dual-shear bracket to the pivot point to increase the rigidity. I modified and reused the mounting bracket which had been installed on the door for the rim mounting. After welding and mounting the carrier frame, I was disappointed by the amount of flex/bounce with the tire installed. All the flex was in the bumper itself and not the carrier or hinge. I ended up making an additional bracket, which mounts in the stock location on the door, to anchor the carrier to the door. It also doubles as the antennae mount. All the weight is still on the bumper. Everywhere a structural bolt mounts to the bumper I installed a rivet nut insert for added strength and grade 8 hardware was used. I am pleased with the appearance and strength. Having to loosen 3 screw-in handles is a bit cumbersome to open the carrier but ultimately I decided it was more important to have it securely attached.

Originally Posted by Romose

Any possibility i could contact you for more info. I am currently having a tire carrier built for me and we could use some clarification and insight.