Well I finally replaced/fixed my horn buttons. My original ones broke off so for a while I was driving without a horn. Ordered a used set from a fellow forum member and got my horns working properly once again.

Last weekend I changed my oil and switched over to Shell Rotella and a used a purolator oil filter.

About 2 weeks ago I finally got my power seats working again. Old fuses were blown so when I replaced them with same # ratings they kept blowing. Turns out the fuses fitted by previous owner were incorrect # ratings so once I figured out which fuses go then all was fixed and now both seats work as they should! What a relieve.

Not to long ago I replaced my old thermostat with the 180 TDI version and my engine temps have dropped down considerable. Old temps were 197 highway and 212-115 city..... now my temps are 188 highway and 197 city! that engine tick I made videos about..... GONE! Have not heard the ticking ever since I replaced the thermostat.... strange. Leads me to believe that the engine tick in some cases is caused by really high engine temps which in turn cause things inside the engine to come lose and move around violently. Just a theory.

Also recently had my brakes upgraded finally! Was holding it off until I was in the market for a premium slotted/drilled kit as most kits are super expensive. But sadly my drivers side rear caliper failed and dug into the rotor so I had no choice but to replace the caliper. Last year I replaced both front calipers when my passenger front failed but i always prefer to replace things in pairs so i went ahead and replaced both front. So this time around I said **** it and just replaced both rear calipers with help from Rovers North! and I found a affordable premium slotted/drilled/zinc coated brake kit on ebay for under $250 so I ordered it and so far I have no complaints. The kit did come with ceramic brake pads and so far I have not seen any brake dust buildup on my new wheels. All in all Ive been making some nice progress on my truck.

 

I haven't posted for awhile because after getting the 60k out of the way on my first ever Rover (even though it was 80K young) and replacing some things pre-failure (my new Woody!) I figured I'd enjoy driving it for awhile. No off-roading yet as the previous owner put (really nice) M+S road tires on it. So, I've used it to tow my Cowboy Action Shooting clubs trailer full of props and targets and been to the Withlacoochee river camping, but the National Forest awaits!
OK...repairs...when I bought my disco, the throttle body heater plate was leaking. I read in the forums the dexcool in the system could kill the crank position sensor, so I bypassed the heater right away and cleaned up all the dexcool, changed all the hoses, etc and flushed the system (new non-dex coolant). Well, the CPK gave up last weekend, a little over a year after I did the flush & clean up. It presented with the typical flashing M & S and D on the dash and center console with a P0335 code and limp home mode. New battery recently installed checked out (thanks for the advice from the posts). Made a quick trip to Advance Auto to pick up the new sensor. A little tight to get in and out, but uneventful otherwise.
I've had a squeeky idler pulley for a couple months and got the kit from Atlantic British and put it in too. Hot damn, I think it drives smoother now...certainly quieter with the new pulleys and a gatorback belt.
Now, I think I'll go back to enjoying driving it for a while before I get into it again.

 

I thought I was in the wrong forum until I figured out smokin was talking about the driveshaft on his Disco. Whew!

I guess I'm being snarky here ... Dexcool gets trashed a lot here, and probably rightfully so, but Dexcool kills the crankshaft position sensor? That's a new one.

 

I opened the passenger side door and grabbed my umbrella from the floor board. It was raining this morning and I didn't want to get soaked while walking to the bus stop.

 

Ouch! Sounds like you've been dumped by your Disco...

 

Hmmm, often with D2 sunroofs if it's raining you get as wet inside the D2 as you would outside. .......................I know both mine leak but have a temporary mastic fix until I tear them out and seal them properly.

 

140,000 on my D2 and still have no sunroof leaks and both work as they should..... lol I had to brag a bit

 

I'm with you. Gonna brag a bit.. no leaks here either. Although I did just spend the last 4 weeks fixing them.. lol.

 

Popped in a converter box to give me an AUX input for the factory head unit. I highly recommend doing this. It is a 5-10 minute install and is awesome.

If you Google around for info on adding an AUX in, you'll find this very well done tutorial about soldering directly to the board so that you can maintain all functions and get the aux in. I gave that a shot and failed pretty miserably (I don't have AM radio anymore ).

Some thoughts/tips:

To remove the radio, you don't need any special tools. I used a couple of the biggest zip ties/wire ties that would fit in the slot. My radio was stuck in there pretty good. I tried pulling the unit out by just using my three fingers in the cassette slot, but couldn't get it out. I used a plastic pry tool to work the head unit out.

Once out, the converter box simply plugs into the head unit where the CD goes and that's it. Cost me $70 (that includes shipping from the UK) to get the box. Wish I would have done it sooner, and I wish I hadn't tried the mod that involves soldering the board.

 

ThisRoverGuy

any links to the product or directions