RAVE specifies adjusting the throttle cable gap to 0.5mm and the cruise control gap to 4-4.5mm.

 

I'd check your CV joints, you may have cracked the cage that holds the ***** in place.

Also, you can't use a rear differential in a front axle, ring gears are different.

Brian.

 

I thought about a CV, but the sound doesn't change when turning at all. I figured the sound would change. Might still be worth pulling and checking. I've got extra CVs, too.

I thought Discovery diffs were the same front and rear from the factory? They should be different for strength, and the aftermarket Ashcroft gears are reverse cut, but stock isn't. Could be wrong, but that's what I've been told. I've never sat the two side by side.

Thanks, Brian.

Also, was towing again today. Girlfriend and I met up. I had just dropped a big load of wood for a woodworker buddy, my girlfriend and I wanted to ride together, so I just loaded her up and drove an hour back to my house. Honestly, I think the car is lighter than the load of wood. 15 feet of walnut, 5 feet of white oak, and then a bunch of assorted pieces of wild cherry and peach tree. I can't wait to see what he makes out of it.

 

Also forgot! I topped over 150k day before yesterday. And missed the picture. Oh well.

 

I just adjusted my throttle and Cruise Control cables. I have had a surging type of idle, and my throttle was way off. I will have to watch to see if it affects the idle at all, I have only gone to the grocery store and back.

My throttle gap was way way off. Probably 5mm or so. Which is incredible considering the proper adjustment is .5mm.

The accelerator feels much better. Can't believe I waited this long to do it. I did go get a digital micrometer, 12.99 at autozone.

I also just went back to a Napa gold air filter from a K&N. It runs a bit smoother with the Napa gold filter, and honestly, I can’t feel any difference performance wise, or mpg wise. I had the K&N that fit into the stock air box. The cones may provide more benefit. I foun that the oil from the filter was migrating to the MAF. Didn’t like that.

 

Maybe someone missed the decimal

 

The adjustment bolt was frozen on with rust, so I am guessing it has never moved. The cable has obviously stretched a ton, I bet the adjustment but moved forward near an inch.

 

I am going to do this eventually. How bad is it?

 

Honestly, not as bad as I thought it would be. I have two tips: first, that pinch weld in your floor behind the case? Get a 3lb hammer and hammer it over as flat as you can. You'll need the room. Second, completely remove the park brake drum as most people recommend. I've removed them both ways. It's a million times easier.

Other than that, just take it slow. You do NOT need to cut a larger shifter hole as the Lucky 8 video recommends. Also, to remove the shifter boot place your hands on each edge of the "frame" and rotate it instead of prying.

It's a time consuming job, but not terribly difficult.

Oh, also get 4 long 10mm bolts. Like 6' long and a bunch of washers. Use those to guide the replacement case back in.

Oh, and ratchet straps the TC down to your jack. You don't want to be trying to balance the case. Just don't ratchet around any wires, cables, or fuel lines in the process.

If you get into it with any more questions, feel free to shoot me a message. I check in pretty often.

 

Yeah I did a TC not to long ago and it wasn't bad at all. I had the muffler out, and I removed the ebrake drum, and when removing/installing I removed the round cover on the TC and removed the gear to make it easier to maneuver. The fuel lines did try to fight me, but I secured them out of the way and after that no problems.

Also the 03-04 Metal plate for the PRND321, and the 4hi/N4lo linkage to mount onto is the same so no modifying is needed. Only 99-02 will have the smaller round hole that needs widening.