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The Problem: (1) I can't count on anyone around me to be a pedal-man to help me bleed my breaks. (2) I can't seem to get a "one-man bleed tube" here in less than a week. (3) I don't like the idea of spending a ton of money on a pressure bleeder/vacuum pump/Hawkeye, etc... (4) I live in New England, and can't trust speed bleeders not to turn into little ***** of rust on my calipers.
My Solution: Basically, I just put an in-line speed bleeder onto a standard two-person tubing/bottle set-up.
In theory, this should let me run the tube from the caliper bleeder nipple to a bottle or bleeder bag like normal, but will let me pump the pedal myself, while the speed bleeder prevents old fluid or air getting sucked back into the line when I let off the pedal (just like the One-Man Bleeder Tube I'm too impatient to wait for).
The likely failure points: (1) The unattended tube popping off the bleeder nipple while I'm pumping away in the driver's seat. (2) The tube feeding the speed bleeder doesn't allow for sufficient flow-rate to handle the 25(ish) PSI. and well... see #1. (3) The fittings going from 3/16 to 1/4 fail under pressure, making a huge mess, or, well... see #1.
I'm not posting this to say this is a good idea or anything like that. I'd definitely recommend just getting the right tools for the job, but just thought I'd give everyone something to yell at me for haha.
I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow. Who knows, maybe it will work.
Well... Not so much haha The 1/4 ID tubing doesn't quite snug up on the caliper's bleeder nipple once the pressure builds. I think if the flow to the speedbleeder wasn't restricted by the surrounding hose, there wouldn't be such a pressure build-up at the nipple, and it would work better, but it's not worth messing with. Time to phone a friend.
Sea Foamed Emma today with good results. I took the intake tube off and sprayed it in with a straight spray tube. Cleared the codes when I was done, which there was only one, P1884.
Smoked pretty good on the restart, and while I was driving down the street. I'll do this again next month and see if the results are similar.
Was referring to the SeaFoam treatment as a fix in jest.
Yeah, when having my own gradually worsening occurrences of S&M/limp issues discovered I could clear the code even driving down the road using my ScanGuage. Not well publicized and very good to know info when it happens. Mentioned it to Extinct in another thread from a couple of days ago.
......
I added blue LEDs (though it looks purple in the picture) to the gauge cluster to match the LEDs I put in the clock, door central unlock/lock switch, the window switches in center console, both rear window switches, and climate control unit.
The odometer light hasn’t ever worked even after swapping bulbs. Going to figure out how to fix that next. Gauge cluster swap? BCU swap?
