What did you do with your DII today?
Con rod bolts are TTY, one time use.
Cheapest and best source is Turner:
https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/...s-c102x3005626
Main bearings 25 pounds
Con rod bearings 20 pounds
Front cover genuine 245 pounds (does lucky8 sell the Britpart one? I don't know)
I underestimated piston rings.. those are actually 125 pounds
I preach turner all the time for engine parts!
Ideally you will want to inspect the crankshaft first to see if it needs turning, and order the appropriate sized bearings accordingly. Crank polish is like $40, turning it is around $100 (machinist)
Yes con rods and press fit in with a grudgeon pin. I didn't dissemble mine. Manual calls for a few special tools.
Cheapest and best source is Turner:
https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/...s-c102x3005626
Main bearings 25 pounds
Con rod bearings 20 pounds
Front cover genuine 245 pounds (does lucky8 sell the Britpart one? I don't know)
I underestimated piston rings.. those are actually 125 pounds
I preach turner all the time for engine parts!
Ideally you will want to inspect the crankshaft first to see if it needs turning, and order the appropriate sized bearings accordingly. Crank polish is like $40, turning it is around $100 (machinist)
Yes con rods and press fit in with a grudgeon pin. I didn't dissemble mine. Manual calls for a few special tools.
Rings must be what I'm remembering. Man, that's pricy. Would be good to find something that has the same bore size to get rings for. I'll do some research on that front.
If the crank is in poor shape I've got another. If they're both in poor shape.... I guess that would just have to add to the cost.
Getting pricy, gentlemen. We're in the ballpark of another $600-700.
I guess I'll start with robbing the front cover off the girls truck. It's gotta come off anyway. She's getting head gaskets and such anyway, so won't be any extra work on that front. Only cost one extra gasket to test.
Man, should've ordered parts right after Brexit when the pound plummeted so hard. Could've gotten all these parts for a pretty penny less.
Chevy 305 has a bore that's only 36 thousanths larger. Anyone know if you can over-bore these blocks by that much? Might run into issues there. Not sure.
Nooooow we're getting into pricy machine work.
Nooooow we're getting into pricy machine work.
36 thou is a lot. Oversize (grade B) pistons were only 2 thou oversize. I wouldn't want to make those water jacket walls any thinner.
Yeah, that's what I figured. And no way I'm resleeving the block. If I were to go that far I'm just getting a Turner block.
Lots of good info here:
http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/40difference.htm
I haven't gotten to really dig into it deep yet, but I will.
Lots of good info here:
http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/40difference.htm
I haven't gotten to really dig into it deep yet, but I will.
I wonder what was so special about the Buick 300 block? The bore in those was 50 thou larger. I don't think they were even cross bolted like our Bosch engines are. I'm not positive on that though.
A different block.
The 4.0/4.6 was "based" on that design.
It's hard, if not impossible to get a sleeve wall thickness measurement of the sleeve while it's in the block.
However, they are thin.
.020" bigger is technically a -.010" thinner wall, about 2 1/2 sheets of paper thick, so not much.
But, it is substantial.
If they are boring them that much, I hope it has been done several times before...and not caused heating issues.
Aluminum disapates heat much faster than steel,
so the heat the block absorbs goes away faster than in an iron block.
However, they are thin.
.020" bigger is technically a -.010" thinner wall, about 2 1/2 sheets of paper thick, so not much.
But, it is substantial.
If they are boring them that much, I hope it has been done several times before...and not caused heating issues.
Aluminum disapates heat much faster than steel,
so the heat the block absorbs goes away faster than in an iron block.


