What did you do with your DII today?
#6221
Got the gray 03 running today. Road test went well. Pulled everything out of garage for a good floor sweeping...and photo shoot.
Three out of four run, old whitey is next on the to-do list. I'll drive the gray 03 for a few days, around the "country-style" block and transfer plates off of my 01 sometime after Christmas.
Brian.
#6223
Got the gray 03 running today. Road test went well. Pulled everything out of garage for a good floor sweeping...and photo shoot.
Three out of four run, old whitey is next on the to-do list. I'll drive the gray 03 for a few days, around the "country-style" block and transfer plates off of my 01 sometime after Christmas.
Brian.
Three out of four run, old whitey is next on the to-do list. I'll drive the gray 03 for a few days, around the "country-style" block and transfer plates off of my 01 sometime after Christmas.
Brian.
#6224
So, l'm going to build a new, slightly cleaner daily/trail rig and disassembly the 01, saving axles and drive train for future breakage. I can't sell it in good faith to anyone, she's extremely tired, especially after the drowning she took a year ago. Between that and the long trip to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan last fall...she burns about a quart of oil every fifty miles now. For the initial 500 dollar purchase price and 700 more for trans, y-pipe and front drive shaft...she doesn't owe me a thing...since everything else that l've put onto her is coming off. Truthfully, how often do you get 30K miles out of a 1200 dollar purchase...plus all of the wheeling/camping memories.
Now, after looking at the last two years in pictures...you got me all sentimental about her.
Brian.
#6225
After noticing a slight delay in the trans, on the new 03, while going from drive to reverse...l decided to check the fluid...4 quarts low. I'm thoroughly convinced that half the land rover owners and repair shops have no idea how to fill a trans after filter change.
Also, changed out the belt, idler pulleys and tentioner and removed plastic belly pan under engine (who's brilliant idea was this stupidity?). The front crank seal is leaking profusely, so that is on the list.
Brian.
Also, changed out the belt, idler pulleys and tentioner and removed plastic belly pan under engine (who's brilliant idea was this stupidity?). The front crank seal is leaking profusely, so that is on the list.
Brian.
#6226
Brian, thanks for explaining why the '01 is on the way out. You're lucky (or cursed) to have found a couple other trucks in the last few weeks that look like they're going to work out for you.
As for the '03 transmission fluid, isn't filling a DII transmission the same as any other automatic. Maybe the lack of a dipstick throws them off ...
As for the '03 transmission fluid, isn't filling a DII transmission the same as any other automatic. Maybe the lack of a dipstick throws them off ...
#6227
Brian, thanks for explaining why the '01 is on the way out. You're lucky (or cursed) to have found a couple other trucks in the last few weeks that look like they're going to work out for you.
As for the '03 transmission fluid, isn't filling a DII transmission the same as any other automatic. Maybe the lack of a dipstick throws them off ...
As for the '03 transmission fluid, isn't filling a DII transmission the same as any other automatic. Maybe the lack of a dipstick throws them off ...
However, on a Dll...you change fluid and filter by reinstalling pan/filter and pump fluid into the pan until it runs/comes out of the fill hole (vehicle must be level - usually about three and a half quarts), then you start it up and refill until fluid runs/comes out of the fill hole in a stream about 1/8 in diameter (which is usually about four quarts). Also, it is recommended to run the vehicle through the gears, reverse, drive and such, check again, and refill as needed.
So, as you can see...the rover holds about seven quarts total on refill...but...it only takes about 3 1/2 qts. while not running. The remainder must go in after vehicle is running.
Brian.
#6228
Forgot about the electrical mystery l ran into yesterday. Wife mentioned the right tail light wasn't working, so l pulled the assembly. Turned the plastic bulb socket and looked at the single filament (1156)...hmmm?...lol..replaced it with a double filament bulb (1157) and all was right in the world again.
Brian.
Brian.
#6230
That SUCKS Twix! I hope mine don't have the same fate.
Yesterday I messed with Mater aka the rust bucket Westminster. I "properly" installed a new waterpump & gasket. Surprise it doesn't leak, slapped on a new 195F thermostat I had laying around (of coarse I plan on a 180F eventually), and added some 50/50 coolant. It was the first time I'd actually run Mater for more than a few minutes. Runs exceptionally well zero knocks, ticks, and I ran it up until it got in the 205F range. Shut it off, and let it cool down.
Topped off the coolant this morning, then went to investigate the transmission. If you put it into R it goes immediately into gear, if you go into D you just hear a whirring sound, but if you take it down to 1st it'll engage fine. Then if you take off in first, shift to second, then D you're good to go. I checked the transmission fluid and it was about a 3/4 of a quart low. Topped it off and it still acts dumb when placed into D. My guess is the Torque Converter. I took it for a spin around the block and all was well. I then heard a POP & saw a cloud of white smoke behind me. Got her home to find the frigging plastic T had blown apart. I NEVER did get my all aluminum T from JTR & Stealth Conversions that I ordered over a year ago for 50.00 plus shipping. So it's back to sitting for the time being until I can get the coolant system done.
I didn't buy Mater for a D/D. I mainly bought it for a good engine, interior/exterior, and parts. The trans isn't an issue for me as it at least moves on it's own if you drive it like a stick haha.
The engine never spiked temp wise, the hoses never got rock hard, exhaust was good, zero knocks, or ticks. So I truly do think I have a good condition 4.0L and that in itself is worth it!
Yesterday I messed with Mater aka the rust bucket Westminster. I "properly" installed a new waterpump & gasket. Surprise it doesn't leak, slapped on a new 195F thermostat I had laying around (of coarse I plan on a 180F eventually), and added some 50/50 coolant. It was the first time I'd actually run Mater for more than a few minutes. Runs exceptionally well zero knocks, ticks, and I ran it up until it got in the 205F range. Shut it off, and let it cool down.
Topped off the coolant this morning, then went to investigate the transmission. If you put it into R it goes immediately into gear, if you go into D you just hear a whirring sound, but if you take it down to 1st it'll engage fine. Then if you take off in first, shift to second, then D you're good to go. I checked the transmission fluid and it was about a 3/4 of a quart low. Topped it off and it still acts dumb when placed into D. My guess is the Torque Converter. I took it for a spin around the block and all was well. I then heard a POP & saw a cloud of white smoke behind me. Got her home to find the frigging plastic T had blown apart. I NEVER did get my all aluminum T from JTR & Stealth Conversions that I ordered over a year ago for 50.00 plus shipping. So it's back to sitting for the time being until I can get the coolant system done.
I didn't buy Mater for a D/D. I mainly bought it for a good engine, interior/exterior, and parts. The trans isn't an issue for me as it at least moves on it's own if you drive it like a stick haha.
The engine never spiked temp wise, the hoses never got rock hard, exhaust was good, zero knocks, or ticks. So I truly do think I have a good condition 4.0L and that in itself is worth it!
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The Deputy (12-23-2018)