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I came home & took the 02 Westminster D2 for a 20 mile drive. She hasn’t been on the road in a long time from what I could tell. Drove it like a manual & I cruised around at 65-70MPH. Temps were about 5-8F more than my personal D2’s but the radiator condition is unknown. Engine runs really good & that’s all I honestly wanted to verify. After resetting the adaptive settings it now idles fine. It’s OEM baffle in the passenger valve cover was a joke (solid crud) and I had a spare FV308 laying around so in it went. Also fixed the famous busted coin/ash tray bins with the excellent zip tie trick, re-fitted all the center console parts and it looks pretty darn clean! This weekend I’ll install the used rear cargo door license plate/door handle cover. Then I’ll be done with it & I’ll have decide if I keep it for the good engine, do I just sell it, or part it out??
Besides the rusty frame it really has a lot of good parts on it & it’s a shame because with a replacement transmission it would be a darn clean original 02 Westminster.
Thanks to a GoWest post from 2011 on LRR, I learned that I didn't have to pull out my radiator to remove the high pressure steering line. The trick is removing the plastic side cover that you can see just under/inside the driver side fender. 3 8mm bolts hold that cover up against the frame, 1 that you access from under the hood, 1 is easily visible from the driver side front tire, and 1 is hidden way up against the frame on the upper outside back of the panel.
I also removed the cover that hides the windshield cleaner fluid/pumps and I removed the front grill and front underside wire mesh which allows access to 2 philips screws that hold on the 2 brackets for the high pressure steering line.
With those brackets disconnected from their base, you can squeeze in an 8mm socket to remove each of the 2 bolts that hold those brackets onto the high pressure steering line.
Then I used a 17mm wrench to loosen the nut holding the HP steering line to the steering pump, and a 10mm socket to remove the bolt that holds the other end of the HP steering line to the steering box.
With that removed, that huge, long high pressure steering line just slides and twists out through that now-vacant plastic side cover area by the windshield washer reservoir.
Tomorrow I'll install the new high pressure line and test. It was a pretty bad PS fluid leak so this should be a dramatic improvement.
You don't remove a wheel/tire.
You don't remove the fender liner.
You don't remove a radiator.
You don't remove the engine fan/clutch.
Finished the power steering line repair/replacement today and took the fam on a 60 miles supper outing to test it out. No drips!
Now I can move on to lower-priority Disco projects. Speaking of which, who has found the best way to seal the doors and windows from wind noise?
Spent another day in the garage with the new problem child. She's been leaking oil out of the front seal since l got her, and l'm talking leaking big time, and today was the day to put the Exon Valdez out of business. Installed new seal, degreased engine and she looks great after twenty mile road test. Job went as expected, reached for my 24mm socket...and my hand fell on the empty spot between 25 and 23mm sockets. Loaned it to a guy in Ohio last fall, who had an alternator issue. So, off to the parts store for another.
Looks much nicer, all dry and clean...since l HATE OIL LEAKS and all.
Also, swapped passenger door mirror assembly, idler pulley, tensioner and belt, installed flopped tire carrier/tire, ladder and a few other odds and ends.
Swapped interior winch control harness, removed SAI pump and manifolds, relocated washer bottle, removed front sway bar, install front skid plate, wired up winch and mounted solenoid box in factory jack location, installed rear roof rail extensions and took some pictures.
No obvious signs of where the water is coming in and i can't tell if the the drains on the F/R sunroofs have been fixed prior or not but they aren't clogged at all
01-10-2019, 09:20 PM
