Might want to go ahead and too it off. You can sometimes get quite a bitore fluid in that way, and you do not wanna run an auto trans low on fluid.

 

Yesterday was next year. His last post was at 8:00 pm New Year's Eve.

 

Finished ATF fill, this time with engine warm and running. I got a lot more fluid in there.

Deleted more useless tubing: headlight vents (which weren't connected) and headlamp washer plumbing. I was missing 1 squirter and don't really need my headlamps cleaned, thank you. I put a cap & hose clamp on the washer motor and disconnected the wires.

Removed rear door lock actuator. It was frozen up and needs cleaning/replacement.

Removed IAC valve and throttle body. Tomorrow they get cleaned and a new TB heater, gasket, and hose clamps.

Removed oil separator. Got a new PCV valve arriving soon.

 

Cleaned IAC valve and throttle body. Sanded/poilshed gasket surface for TB heater to get rid of uneven-ness. Put new heater& gasket on w/ sealant. New TB gasket as well.

Cleaned MAF.

Added coolant system flush liquid.

Engine idled @ 2000+ RPM! I squeezed idle air hose and RPM went down. Hmmmm....

Then I connected throttle position sensor (Doh!) and things went back to normal.

 

Installed cam bearings, cam plug, and freeze plugs

 

Installed new plugs.

Pressure tested cooling system. Found leak (bad hose clamp on tstat) and fixed it. Now holds 15 psi for 10 minutes. 🙌

BTW, the pressure tester was a loaner tool from Autozone. Costs $275 to check it out (!!!) but they give you 90 days to return it. Unlike other stores I looked at, their tester comes with 20+ adapters, including one that fits a Disco 2 perfectly.

Worked on my BMW for 1.5 hours. Got one bolt off.

 

Did the PCV valve FV308 valve cover breather mod.

Old breather tube was magnificently clogged. Had to drill it out.

Re-installing that hollowed out tube back into the valve cover on the passenger side was trippy. Had to use a hammer to press fit it back.

Seems like every Disco would need this mod.

 

Crankshaft in

 

Crankshaft out

Torqued to spec...and locked up too tight to turn.
Measured both 4.0 and 4.6 crankshaft main journals, and they are within .002 of each other.
Measured first main cap I.D with cap from 4.0 and 4.6, and they are within .001 of each other.
Standard size bearings.
Everything in my 4.6 measured to spec, and turned freely.
The 4.0 shortblock also turned freely.
It's late, I'm tired, I have 4 more main I.D's to measure, but I'm done for now.
Currently at a loss as to what the **** is going on.
I Hate this ****ing thing!
All I want to do is fix it right and get rid of it.

 

Did you use plastic gauge to check the clearances?