When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Then I thought I would just grease up my newly rebuilt front driveshaft and bolt it in place. Instead I spent several aggravating hours pumping grease through one and only one seal of each u joint.
I tried banging w/ a rubber hammer, removing circlips, flexing, nudging, and shouting obscenities. All were equally ineffective.
And the placement of those zerks! Going into this project, I had no idea just how ridiculous it was.
Right now I think I'm gonna stay in 2wd mode until I I cool off a bit. Maybe I'll just get a cheapo Ebay sealed bearing DS and just bolt it in when I feel like going off road. :facepalm:
Also cleaned my super-gummy rear door lock actuator and reinstalled it. It was so badly encrusted in a hardened paste of road dust and WD40 (?) that the springs couldn't reliably pull the various "levers" back to where they belong. That means a stuck door.
Basically I just sprayed it with a ton of silicone lube to get as much goop off/out of it as I could. For now it works, and it beats the cinch strap method of keeping the door shut.
I replaced my master cylinder this weekend. Went very smoothly, took my time, took about an hour. Bench bleeding was simple. I bled the calibers with out an ABS tool, the pedal feel is great. so much better, was able to bleed it with out jacking it up, just crawled around in there.
To be fair, I've made 2 "performance" changes in 2020:
I did the PCV 308 mod and I switched to Sport Mode.
My old valve cover breather tube was 100% blocked, so who knows how the engine was handling that excess gas pressure. Now with the new 308 PCV mod some of those oil fumes are going back into the air intake as the factory originally wanted and there shouldn't be any excess pressure in the valve covers.
...so that might help explain why my Crower performance cam seems to have woken up coincidentally with me switching to Sport Mode for 2020. Just spitballin' an idea here.
Fun either way, though!
@No Doubt i tried switching to Sport mode full time, but it generated a ton of heat from the floorboards. My seat rails got up to 114 degrees!
Not sure this is normal but I turned it off and the temps returned to normal. I don’t need the extra heat in Florida! Measured the temperature of my seat rails after driving all day with sport mode on.
@No Doubt i tried switching to Sport mode full time, but it generated a ton of heat from the floorboards. My seat rails got up to 114 degrees!
Not sure this is normal but I turned it off and the temps returned to normal. I don’t need the extra heat in Florida!
Measured the temperature of my seat rails after driving all day with sport mode on.
Good to know, and that's not my experience so far this Winter, but I will check floorboard temps later. Thanks!
FYI: when I did my rebuild a couple of years ago, I made a mistake putting exhaust wrap on my headers that caused my factory cats to glow orange, immediately pulled off that exhaust wrap but some 2,000 miles later the old cats started rattling so I had to replace them. Installed legit replacement cats (but aftermarket generic high-flow cats).
Maybe high-flow cats don't have your Sport Mode experience??
I finally got east to pick up my purchase in Springfield, MA. Took her (‘00 Disco II) to a ‘rent a lift’ joint in Hartford, CT and did diagnostics with my iCarSoft (ABS failure, Cruise Control fail, SES not connected to EMS, and that was about it. Reset error codes and started changing fluids. Oil change, front and rear differential, flushed radiator.
Added Ultragauge and started my drive west.
only got to Philly before being called to be at a project meeting, so she is now parked at the airport waiting for me to continue the jaunt to Phoenix.
Got 15 mpg averaging between 70-75 on I95. Ran great all the way. Good temperatures, smooth ride, no ugly sounds.. but definitely noisier than my LR3! But, so far I’m thrilled!
Full brake job - pads and rotors - greased sliders - Was an easy job on this truck.
One of the rears was metal on metal and gouged the rotor pretty good - this service was overdue.
Couldnt beat this price - While I dont care about drilled and slotted, it was hard to pass up the price on the kit.
25 mile commute this morning and all is well - brakes feel good - no complaints so far.......
I finally got east to pick up my purchase in Springfield, MA. Took her (‘00 Disco II) to a ‘rent a lift’ joint in Hartford, CT and did diagnostics with my iCarSoft (ABS failure, Cruise Control fail, SES not connected to EMS, and that was about it. Reset error codes and started changing fluids. Oil change, front and rear differential, flushed radiator.
Added Ultragauge and started my drive west.
only got to Philly before being called to be at a project meeting, so she is now parked at the airport waiting for me to continue the jaunt to Phoenix.
Got 15 mpg averaging between 70-75 on I95. Ran great all the way. Good temperatures, smooth ride, no ugly sounds.. but definitely noisier than my LR3! But, so far I’m thrilled!
Neat. 15+ mpg and good temps are pretty good indications that you picked a winner for Disco 2s.
Took my front driveshaft apart (again) to see why u joints didn't purge right. After another 962 hours of aggravation I now have 2 perfectly flowing u joints, and a third that I'll need to buy a replacement for. (Those seals are real easy to mangle...)
Also removed 5.5 of the 6 studs holding the y pipe to exhaust manifolds. Since I need to pull the manifold to get the last 1/2 stud out, I bought new exhaust manifold gaskets, extractor set, and 12 point socket set.
Installed one new windshield squirter; other one was broken upon arrival 😠. So I poked a needle into the old one and was surprised how easily the crud came out. Shoulda done that first....