I'm going to politely disagree with this...and not looking to take sides in the former discussion...but...

The hamonic balancer is the worse place you could ever use for jacking an engine. It has an inner and outer shell, that has a rubber sleeve pressed between each one...so, if you are lifting engine by it...you are crushing/distorting the rubber sleeve...ruining the balance. Plus, you are putting way to much force on oil pump assembly and front seal.

The oil pan is a much better lifting area, if load is spread out (2X6) and done properly (lifting torwards the rear of the pan).

Like l say...not looking to argue...just know for a fact...after 42 years of being a mechanic and sitting through countless engine classes...that using the hamonic balancer is not the right way.

Brian.

 

I will agree that can be alot of stress on a rubber balancer.
But, there is no force applied to the oil pump or front seal, the front snout of the crank is not flexing or moving.
As for the pan, I'll continue to not trust a cast aluminum part for supporting all that weight.

 

I will agree that can be alot of stress on a rubber balancer.
But, there is no force applied to the oil pump or front seal, the front snout of the crank is not flexing or moving.
As for the pan, I'll continue to not trust a cast aluminum part for supporting all that weight.

 

Replaced transmission pan gasket, filter and fluid. Fun times under the Disco.

 

Thanks DiscoID, I'm debating doing this myself. Was that your first time doing this? If so, how many hours did it take? Could you tell a difference in the transmission afterwards? Thanks!

 

Planning on doing this job in the next couple weeks and had a quick question. The AB kit includes new metal fittings to hold the pan to the transmission case. Did you need to replace those? I just got a new filter and gasket and was just going to reuse the fittings.

 

Kalliste80 - It was my first time, so it took a bit longer than it needed to. I took my time cleaning off the outside of the pan which added to the overall job (lot's of build up of the various automatic underbody rust preventative systems). If you went through it in a determined manner, it should take longer than two hours max start to finish, and probably not even that long. It's pretty straight forward:

 

boston4 - I re-used the existing hardware, but did take my time to give it a thorough cleaning and inspection. I did replace the drain plug and fill plug washers, but reused all existing bolts.

 

Perfect - thanks

This is a fancy way of referring to oil leaks.