When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
With the headliner board removed, I applied some RTV to the sunroof drains, and started adding soundproofing to the roof. I am going to sound proof the entire roof and rear cargo area.
I did the same on mine, I hope yours stays on. Mine started melting and I can smell the tar from the sound deadener. Will go with sound skins next time.
Originally Posted by Geordon Sparks Orbical Taylor
don't know where these go (see photo) and hope this may be my vacuum leak. It's a plastic hose between the bell housing/firewall and the upper plenum. Any help would be much-appreciated guys. Cheers.
Those are breather lines for the front differential and the transfer case. They have nothing to do with any of your fault codes.
I am in the process of removing and refinishing the door frames, a few have visible rust and after this one, I think there is probably more rust that is not visible on the others. Sanded, primed, painted. Not too bad really, 20 min to remove/install and however much to dremel, sand, prime, paint. Looks much better and probably prevent future problems. One question, there is a two wire connection attached to the power mirror wires. Does anyone know what it is for? I meant to take a picture but it did not work out.
For anyone who's wondering, the 80mm pulley goes between the AC compressor and PS pump, and the 70mm is on the passenger side next to the idler tensioner. Ordered a new one from Lucky8.
Installed the new idler pulley. Torque setting is 37lb-ft. Refreshing to go out to do a job on the truck and actually have it only take 10 minutes. Sounds like this quieted down a whine that I'd been hearing (presumably the old bearing failing).
2001 D2 originally had coils retrofit by previous owner. I had the vehicle for 4 years now, and was suffering from battery drain. Found out the compressor was still active and hear a 'tick-tick' as if it was trying to turn on. The compressor is gone, relays etc pulled out. SLABS ECU sounds the alarm if I am cornering or going over a bump. Removed various fuses including ABS and still the alarm goes off. All fuses are back in.
Is it just as easy to remove fascia and snip alarm speakers (which may be useful in the future), or remove the specific SLABS relay or snip some pins within the relay? Also, the schematic mentions a "fuse link 9" which is a downstream connection prior to the height sensors, etc.
