What did you do with your DII today?
#8221
@redwhitekat It is not working right I get a collapsed rad hose when the engine cools, it could be the hose to be fair but it is usually the rad cap. As the hose gets dumped as part of the inline mod I am not overly concerned about it.
#8222
@redwhitekat It is not working right I get a collapsed rad hose when the engine cools, it could be the hose to be fair but it is usually the rad cap. As the hose gets dumped as part of the inline mod I am not overly concerned about it.
you will not regret the inline thermostat
With 30 degrees Celsius and humid my rover purrrs at 185-190
#8223
@redwhitekat I have had it for nearly a year but I had some weirdness going with the cooling system that needed to be sorted out. That is sorted has been for a while now it is just a weather issue. Although the black TD5 thermostat works well, it still allows temp "spiking" due to the position. It will be nice to have simplified system, with the thermostat at the top
#8224
@redwhitekat I have had it for nearly a year but I had some weirdness going with the cooling system that needed to be sorted out. That is sorted has been for a while now it is just a weather issue. Although the black TD5 thermostat works well, it still allows temp "spiking" due to the position. It will be nice to have simplified system, with the thermostat at the top
#8225
#8226
Or maybe you mean the bleeder hole on the T junction, not the Thermostat. You can check the integrity of your bleed by opening the bleed screw when the engine is cold (stone cold.) Remove the screw. If coolant is not right up to the top of the hole then you have found air. replace that air with coolant by adding it right into this hole... carefully with a small funnel, etc. replace screw cap and drive as normal. Repeat this procedure a few times until you no longer see air under the screw cap. If that never happens you have a leak somewhere allowing air in.
#8227
#8228
Or maybe you mean the bleeder hole on the T junction, not the Thermostat. You can check the integrity of your bleed by opening the bleed screw when the engine is cold (stone cold.) Remove the screw. If coolant is not right up to the top of the hole then you have found air. replace that air with coolant by adding it right into this hole... carefully with a small funnel, etc. replace screw cap and drive as normal. Repeat this procedure a few times until you no longer see air under the screw cap. If that never happens you have a leak somewhere allowing air in.
we have the port now on the inline stat no more T
but i noticed when i used to fill the system before with the oem parts intact the coolant used to fill pretty quick now with the inline mod it takes forever for the coolant to get into the block , i have the alisport metal tank not sure if that makes a difference
#8229
I constantly have my UltraGauge Blue inserted into the OBD port and connected to my iPad to monitor my engine temps but this time tried it to clear my 4-amigos fault. Surprisingly it worked!
It actually cleared it from my iPad as I normally use my Nanocom or Foxwell to do this.
It actually cleared it from my iPad as I normally use my Nanocom or Foxwell to do this.
Last edited by JUKE179r; 06-11-2021 at 04:23 PM.
The following users liked this post:
The_OGCJR (06-12-2021)
#8230
I constantly have my UltraGauge Blue inserted into the OBD port and connected to my iPad to monitor my engine temps but this time tried it to clear my 4-amigos fault. Surprisingly it worked!
It actually cleared it from my iPad as I normally use my Nanocom or Foxwell to do this.
It actually cleared it from my iPad as I normally use my Nanocom or Foxwell to do this.