What did you do with your DII today?
Installed new HD steering kit STEERING ROD SET HEAVY DUTY DISCOVERY II PLS006HD, TF255 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
and Terrafirma adjustable panhard rod Product Details - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
Then did an alignment, it drives MUCH better now.
and Terrafirma adjustable panhard rod Product Details - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
Then did an alignment, it drives MUCH better now.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
My '03 was momentarily dropping RPMs when idling, so I took a deep breath and replaced the wires and plugs with Kingsborne 8mm and Bosch Platinum +4s. Took about 3 hours this evening to do, and not nearly as bad as I thought (if there's problems, I tend to experience them, so....). Idles smooth as butter now.
A couple of weekends ago I installed a pair of Firestone CoilRite air springs in the rear to level the truck while towing, as well as new front sway bar links.
A couple of weekends ago I installed a pair of Firestone CoilRite air springs in the rear to level the truck while towing, as well as new front sway bar links.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 446
Likes: 3
From: Honolulu, Hawaii
This isn't from today and it didn't directly involve my D2 but, finally moved my Land Rover sign from the shop near where I found it to my house. Had to call in some help from a friend with the biggest non commercial vehicle on island (that isn't a joke or an overstatement).
This is a 8' x 4' sign sitting in the bed with still a few feet on either side length wise and maybe a few inches side to side to spare!
This is a 8' x 4' sign sitting in the bed with still a few feet on either side length wise and maybe a few inches side to side to spare!
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 245
Likes: 16
From: Denver, CO
Oil Pressure and collector gasket
Today I finally got around to installing the GlowShift MaxTow oil pressure gauge that's been parked in a basement closet for about the past year. 26 PSI at cold (well, it was like 90 today, so not that cold) idle. Didn't drive 'er yet, but hopefully the numbers will be reasonable. So glad to at least have trend information rather than a light that might come on.
Anyway, while I had my arms down there by the oil filter/pump housing I looked over and noticed the source of my recently-developed engine tick, one of the exhaust collector studs was gone! Found an unused stainless metric bolt in my collection of misc hardware and after about 2 minutes of crawling around under the beast the ticking is fixed!
It was a good day. Now to figure out the latest accessory-related whining. PS Pump? Tensioner? AC Clutch... We shall see!
Anyway, while I had my arms down there by the oil filter/pump housing I looked over and noticed the source of my recently-developed engine tick, one of the exhaust collector studs was gone! Found an unused stainless metric bolt in my collection of misc hardware and after about 2 minutes of crawling around under the beast the ticking is fixed!
It was a good day. Now to figure out the latest accessory-related whining. PS Pump? Tensioner? AC Clutch... We shall see!
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 32
From: Austin, TX
4th Gear
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
My New Discovery II - Work in Progress
Hi all, I am new to the forum and since this is my first post I thought I would give a little background:
We just purchased our second LR a 2002 Discovery II SE as a daily driver / project car (My wife has been driving her LR3 for 2 yrs and I had to have one of my onw!)
2 previous owners (0-85k / 85k-108k)
I bought the vehicle last week with 108k and it is cosmetically in great shape, very clean in and out! I found the LR Service Passport in the front glove box with pretty much every scheduled service completed at a local (Houston) LR Dealer up until about the point the first owner sold it. After that, no records but talking to the 2nd owner (the one that sold to me) I got the impression that he kept up with at least routine maintenance and did his best to take care of the truck (he had it 4 years and put just over 20k in that time so I dont think it was abused). Anyway, I have had about a week now to go thru it and have begun to start with what I have determined are the necessary repairs. In addition to what I have identified, I have a couple other ‘issues’ which have yet to be resolved. What follows is essentially a list of all I have going on at the moment, am planning to do (very near future) as well as a few things I ‘might’ have to address. Feel free to comment on any one or all, any input is appreciated!
1) 3 Amigos on when I purchased – I found the ABS/SVS repair write up and decided to take care of this annoyance immediately. I opted to remove the module (i.e. disconnect the brake lines) and proceed with Plan B. Unfortunately when I removed the SVS I noticed the wire insulation was completely dried out, brittle and flaking off. The wires were exposed in several spots and just handling the switch caused pretty much all the rest of the insulation to flake off. So, I ordered a new switch and seal kit. The seals came in yesterday and I completed that portion last night. The SVS will be delivered on Friday and I plan to install the new switch (will still go thru with Option B bypass while I have it opened up) on Friday night. My biggest concern with all this is the fact that my brake lines have been sitting disconnected since last Tuesday night. I did the latex glove finger trick and secured them well with zip ties, but this is no way air tight. I live in Houston, high humidity this time of year and we have had some rain this weekend although the hood has been closed when I am not working on it. So, should I be worried about water contamination? I kind of figured that given the age of the vehicle, and gap in service records that it may just be a good idea to take it in for a brake fluid service after the ABS work is done. Am I being paranoid? Also, is it recommended that this be done by a LR dealer, or can I change the fluid myself? I’m not concerned with the difficulty of the job, I am more concerned with making sure it is done right as I am always nervous about brake fluid contamination.
2) Oil Pan Gasket – Not a lot to say here, pan was leaky (not terrible, but enough to make me want to just do it sooner than later). Will be dropping the pan tonight, have the new gasket and Black RTV. I don’t anticipate this being a tricky job but any tips are welcome.
3) Front Drive Shaft – I have read about the issues. Is there an easy way to identify if mine is original (I suspect it is but want to confirm)? If so I will be doing this within the next couple weeks. Suggestions on replacement part/brand? Any special tools/skills required?
4) Coolant Leak – I was told by the seller than she leaked coolant, he wasn’t sure where though. I have begun investigating (originally just assumed rear Head Gasket) and it is still inconclusive. I have a pressure tester (thanks AutoZone tool loan) but I do not have the right adapter… I am going after work to get it and plan to test in the next couple days after the oil pan work is done. I have monitored the coolant level and leak location for a week now and this is what I can tell you. Seems to leak without any system pressure (gravity must be an accomplice!) and it only seems to accumulate on the front passenger side (pools up in the plastic shrouds up near the bumper). I don’t see any fluid up top and figure the leak might very well be a low positioned hose or the Radiator itself. I know once I pressure test I might find more than one leak so I have already purchased an entire Head Gasket Kit with bolts and I am ready to tackle this job if needed, but before I go tearing the top off I want to be sure the heads actually leak (if they don’t, the kit will get shelved until the inevitable happens). Are there any other common issues which might account for my leak? If the radiator is leaking do any repair options exist, or am I just gonna have to pony up the $$ (I’ve seen how much they cost, ouch!).
5) 4 Wheel Drive – Previous owner told me he never used 4WD. I have tried to shift into 4W H/L but can’t move the shifter (following the instructions in the manual for shifting while in N with brakes on). Being cautions I didn’t try to force it, so either I just need more elbow grease or something is wrong. I have not checked any fluids in the gear boxes but will do so after 1 & 2 above are done. (I should have mentioned I am not driving the truck until all this is done as I have other means of transport for at least the next few weeks giving me time to get her right first!) Not a lot to go on but any thoughts are appreciated.
6) Misc – Any other thoughts, suggestions or recommendations? At 108k should I be adding anything else to my list?
Thanks a lot, I am looking forward to hearing back and appreciate the opportunity to share my story with other Rovers!
We just purchased our second LR a 2002 Discovery II SE as a daily driver / project car (My wife has been driving her LR3 for 2 yrs and I had to have one of my onw!)
2 previous owners (0-85k / 85k-108k)
I bought the vehicle last week with 108k and it is cosmetically in great shape, very clean in and out! I found the LR Service Passport in the front glove box with pretty much every scheduled service completed at a local (Houston) LR Dealer up until about the point the first owner sold it. After that, no records but talking to the 2nd owner (the one that sold to me) I got the impression that he kept up with at least routine maintenance and did his best to take care of the truck (he had it 4 years and put just over 20k in that time so I dont think it was abused). Anyway, I have had about a week now to go thru it and have begun to start with what I have determined are the necessary repairs. In addition to what I have identified, I have a couple other ‘issues’ which have yet to be resolved. What follows is essentially a list of all I have going on at the moment, am planning to do (very near future) as well as a few things I ‘might’ have to address. Feel free to comment on any one or all, any input is appreciated!
1) 3 Amigos on when I purchased – I found the ABS/SVS repair write up and decided to take care of this annoyance immediately. I opted to remove the module (i.e. disconnect the brake lines) and proceed with Plan B. Unfortunately when I removed the SVS I noticed the wire insulation was completely dried out, brittle and flaking off. The wires were exposed in several spots and just handling the switch caused pretty much all the rest of the insulation to flake off. So, I ordered a new switch and seal kit. The seals came in yesterday and I completed that portion last night. The SVS will be delivered on Friday and I plan to install the new switch (will still go thru with Option B bypass while I have it opened up) on Friday night. My biggest concern with all this is the fact that my brake lines have been sitting disconnected since last Tuesday night. I did the latex glove finger trick and secured them well with zip ties, but this is no way air tight. I live in Houston, high humidity this time of year and we have had some rain this weekend although the hood has been closed when I am not working on it. So, should I be worried about water contamination? I kind of figured that given the age of the vehicle, and gap in service records that it may just be a good idea to take it in for a brake fluid service after the ABS work is done. Am I being paranoid? Also, is it recommended that this be done by a LR dealer, or can I change the fluid myself? I’m not concerned with the difficulty of the job, I am more concerned with making sure it is done right as I am always nervous about brake fluid contamination.
2) Oil Pan Gasket – Not a lot to say here, pan was leaky (not terrible, but enough to make me want to just do it sooner than later). Will be dropping the pan tonight, have the new gasket and Black RTV. I don’t anticipate this being a tricky job but any tips are welcome.
3) Front Drive Shaft – I have read about the issues. Is there an easy way to identify if mine is original (I suspect it is but want to confirm)? If so I will be doing this within the next couple weeks. Suggestions on replacement part/brand? Any special tools/skills required?
4) Coolant Leak – I was told by the seller than she leaked coolant, he wasn’t sure where though. I have begun investigating (originally just assumed rear Head Gasket) and it is still inconclusive. I have a pressure tester (thanks AutoZone tool loan) but I do not have the right adapter… I am going after work to get it and plan to test in the next couple days after the oil pan work is done. I have monitored the coolant level and leak location for a week now and this is what I can tell you. Seems to leak without any system pressure (gravity must be an accomplice!) and it only seems to accumulate on the front passenger side (pools up in the plastic shrouds up near the bumper). I don’t see any fluid up top and figure the leak might very well be a low positioned hose or the Radiator itself. I know once I pressure test I might find more than one leak so I have already purchased an entire Head Gasket Kit with bolts and I am ready to tackle this job if needed, but before I go tearing the top off I want to be sure the heads actually leak (if they don’t, the kit will get shelved until the inevitable happens). Are there any other common issues which might account for my leak? If the radiator is leaking do any repair options exist, or am I just gonna have to pony up the $$ (I’ve seen how much they cost, ouch!).
5) 4 Wheel Drive – Previous owner told me he never used 4WD. I have tried to shift into 4W H/L but can’t move the shifter (following the instructions in the manual for shifting while in N with brakes on). Being cautions I didn’t try to force it, so either I just need more elbow grease or something is wrong. I have not checked any fluids in the gear boxes but will do so after 1 & 2 above are done. (I should have mentioned I am not driving the truck until all this is done as I have other means of transport for at least the next few weeks giving me time to get her right first!) Not a lot to go on but any thoughts are appreciated.
6) Misc – Any other thoughts, suggestions or recommendations? At 108k should I be adding anything else to my list?
Thanks a lot, I am looking forward to hearing back and appreciate the opportunity to share my story with other Rovers!
Baja
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 9,298
Likes: 318
From: Boston Strong
1. you will need a few quarts of dot 4 the whole system will not only need to bleed but flushed also.
2. oil pan gasket they are two more bolts than the Rave tells you.
3. drive shaft is just a PITA to replaced the center ball, oem style shaft with greesable fitting for $299.
4. Pressure testing or ultraviolet dye is the only why to find the leak, you could try a co2 test, but I would continue with the pressure tester.
5. get some PB Blaster climb under the truck and soak the linkage for a couple of days
2. oil pan gasket they are two more bolts than the Rave tells you.
3. drive shaft is just a PITA to replaced the center ball, oem style shaft with greesable fitting for $299.
4. Pressure testing or ultraviolet dye is the only why to find the leak, you could try a co2 test, but I would continue with the pressure tester.
5. get some PB Blaster climb under the truck and soak the linkage for a couple of days
