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Old Aug 10, 2022 | 02:04 PM
  #8851  
JoshD's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 127
Likes: 80
From: New Braunfels, TX
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Got the 275/70/16 Yokahoma Geolander AT G015's mounted today. Definitely fills the fender wells better than the stock size. No rub with a 2 inch lift. Thinking they need a little more poke. Are 1.25 inch spacers the smallest bolt in spacers you can use without cutting the factory lugs? I think a 1 inch would be perfect.





 
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Old Aug 10, 2022 | 04:57 PM
  #8852  
hasullivan's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 118
Likes: 112
From: Pasadena California
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Today I installed the Eternal Passenger.
I saw one of these in a bring a trailer auction and felt that now that I knew it existed, the truck felt empty without it.
I figure they are intended to create brand loyalty in kids/grandkids but I got one anyway.

 
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Old Aug 10, 2022 | 06:32 PM
  #8853  
Extinct's Avatar
Baja
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,251
Likes: 1,804
From: Lynchburg VA
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Oh I need one of those.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 02:33 AM
  #8854  
Alex_M's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 4,743
Likes: 985
From: Southwestern Virginia
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Looking good. As for spacers, you'll have to measure your lug studs to be sure. I'm not sure even 1.25" will fit without cutting, but they may.

Also make sure you use a quality spacer. I recommend BORA. They're pricy, but cheap spacers fail and you can lose a wheel going down the road. Personally I like the look without a spacer though. Rig is looking great.

Originally Posted by JoshD
Got the 275/70/16 Yokahoma Geolander AT G015's mounted today. Definitely fills the fender wells better than the stock size. No rub with a 2 inch lift. Thinking they need a little more poke. Are 1.25 inch spacers the smallest bolt in spacers you can use without cutting the factory lugs? I think a 1 inch would be perfect.



 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 09:35 AM
  #8855  
Land Rover Doc's Avatar
Overlanding
Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 17
Likes: 9
From: Tulsa Oklahoma, USA
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So after installing a new pump seal, and not seeing any wear on the torque converter shaft, it was smooth and shiny. I reassembled everything with a new flexplate and installed the tranny and transfer case, replaced the trans filter, filled it with Valvoline Maxlife and Lucas transmission additive, started it up, and didn't have any leaks while topping off the fluid. I shut it off and a few minutes later a drip from the bell housing started about every 20 seconds. Then the next evening, yesterday, I started it again and it was leaking badly from the front pump seal. I was pretty careful installing the seal and the torque converter... all three clunks. The installation went pretty easy, without any problems, everything torques to the correct spec. Where did I miss it? Should I have replaced the torque converter? Should I have sleeved the shaft? I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade and have been wrenching all my life, but this is my first (owning) LR. I used a Timken seal. Going to begin the process over again. Any advice?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 10:22 AM
  #8856  
Richard Gallant's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,813
Likes: 1,331
From: Mission BC Canada
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A laundry list of maintenance issues has been completed, due some family issue some by shops :

New pads, rotors and stainless steel brake lines
1 in lift pucks in the rear only
New rear output seal on the transfer case - the large 30mm nut was actually loose supposed to torqued to 110 Ft/pnds
New rotoflex
New E-brake pads (I hate drum brake springs - really really hate them)
In for a new front crank seal - for 200.00 it is easier to have the shop do it, and they are giving me a tan cargo cover for nothing they have a bunch
New fan severe duty clutch going in once I get it from @acg the HD is great but the disco gets a bit warm on long steep uphills and everything here is a long steep uphill

Will need tie rod ends before years end, the terrafirma one's boots are all shot
 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 11:47 AM
  #8857  
jastutte's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 300
From: StL, MO
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driver's side window motor stopped working this morning.

i had a spare in the basement and was able to pull the door panel, disassemble the regulator, release the glass from the regulator, remove the regulator from the door and replace the motor. took about an hour and a half to get it all a part and back to together.

i did test the new motor before completing the disassembly just to be safe. judging from the spliced wires (were for splices really necessary?) someone else had been in there before and replaced the motor. the new motor i put in was a bit heavier than the one that came out. hopefully that means that it's higher quality. not sure why weight would be proportional to quality. but i'd really like it to be.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 11:48 AM
  #8858  
B Strife's Avatar
Overlanding
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 23
Likes: 13
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Got my cargo door open with the help of liquid wrench and jiggling the handle. Other recent items were installing driver side c pillar trim, new Nissans radiator and inline thermostat mod. Running great for now.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 06:01 AM
  #8859  
Massrover's Avatar
Three Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 60
Likes: 13
From: Massachusetts
Default Overdue check-in

Since March, Between myself and Indy shops around MA I have done - front driveshaft fully greaseable HD, front hubs, front CVs, front brakes and rotors, rear pads, 5 new BF Goodrich trail terrains, new coolant hoses, throttle cable adjustment, new cat back exhaust and a new transfer case with 66k on it.
Can you tell I was desperately chasing a noise and finally found it in the T-case?… so much for a new engine. But I did give my truck a new nickname. I present to you:
“The English Patient”.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 06:46 AM
  #8860  
mln01's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,880
Likes: 950
From: Charlotte
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Originally Posted by Massrover
...But I did give my truck a new nickname. I present to you:
“The English Patient”.
This is great! Well done!
 
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