Picked up a 2000 disco transfer case today for $180 from a local yard. I got it all cleaned and pulled the front off it. I might try to swap it in tomorrow. I doubt the linkage will be built tomorrow, but I might have a center diff lock transfer case in there anyway. Mine was leaking from the front section anyway.

 

Be sure to change the center shaft o-ring before you put it in, I like to change the o-ring AND use Permatex high-torque silicone on the shaft sealing surface to eliminate/reduce fretting wear.

 

Which one is the center shaft?

 

You should probably review the rave manual and watch some youtube videos before doing the replacement. Tighten the retaining nut an additional 1/8-1/4 turn.

 

Disco 1 CDL is in. I'm not exactly stoked about selector placement, but it will work for now when I make a little handle for it. At the moment it works fine with a 9/16" wrench.

We ran to the fair and of course the kids "Land Rovers!", So we had to take the Disco. I sent my PCM out for a tune a few weeks back to see if a mail order professional tune was better than what I had been able to get done. It is faster with the new tune, but the power band is more narrow and the mileage seems worse. I guess my next project will be more computer time with tunerpro and pcmlogger. That is unless my wife forces me to make rock sliders so she doesn't have to keep jumping her pregnant self in and out without a step.

 

I'm not aware Tunerpro will flash the ecm, if you have info on that please share.

 

Tunerpro and pcmhammer work on my gm pcm beautifully. No idea on the Rover computer.

I need to update my signature so I stop confusing people with engine talk that seems crazy, but in reference to the Rover engine. I did a gm 5.3 swap a few months back.

 

Oh, so LS engine. Lean cruise can be enabled to help with the mileage, do you know what they have the PE mode set to in terms of AFR?

 

I have been messing with lean cruise the last few weeks. It's sort of hit or miss. It seems to work, but I don't see a light switch while cruising that is obvious. So I'm easing into tuning it in for lack of better terms.

I've adjusted the pe tables to about 12.2:1-12.5:1. The tuner left it on the very safe side of 11 something. I think the theoretical pe mixture was set around 11.5, but everything has been consistently slightly rich so after adjusting the ve table a bit to account for always slightly rich, I was able to get it a bit better.

I think if I had the ve table I worked on up originally, and the tuner's timing tables, I'd be pretty close to ideal. The only issue is that's a line by line sort of thing on tunerpro and would probably take me an hour. Maybe this week I'll try. I PCM write only takes from 3-20 minutes depending on what I do though.

 

I have been fighting an intermittent P0130 and P1170 CEL since I got the Disco. You can clear it and it will go away for a while and then come back after a week or so of driving. Well, both point to something in the Bank 1 Oxygen circuit so I ordered a front and rear O2 sensor along with the Dorman purge valve thingy because I have no history at all for this vehicle so why not, right? I changed the purge valve and then the front O2 sensor without much drama. I get to the rear O2 and something looks off. It was caked all around with what might have been black epoxy or JB weld, not sure. Anyway I just grabbed the sensor with my finger and it starts to crumble away and was wiggling...great. Turns out a former owner broke off the original O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe and then just used some various fittings and JB Weld to put a new sensor inside the old sensor. Really???
Somehow or another he/she also managed to bugger up the threads of sensor bung. Good grief Charlie Brown. I booger-welded a new bung on and threaded the old sensor back in to see if it will work. It doesn't even look like it ever made contact with actual exhaust gases.