Tunerpro and pcmhammer work on my gm pcm beautifully. No idea on the Rover computer.

I need to update my signature so I stop confusing people with engine talk that seems crazy, but in reference to the Rover engine. I did a gm 5.3 swap a few months back.

 

Oh, so LS engine. Lean cruise can be enabled to help with the mileage, do you know what they have the PE mode set to in terms of AFR?

 

I have been messing with lean cruise the last few weeks. It's sort of hit or miss. It seems to work, but I don't see a light switch while cruising that is obvious. So I'm easing into tuning it in for lack of better terms.

I've adjusted the pe tables to about 12.2:1-12.5:1. The tuner left it on the very safe side of 11 something. I think the theoretical pe mixture was set around 11.5, but everything has been consistently slightly rich so after adjusting the ve table a bit to account for always slightly rich, I was able to get it a bit better.

I think if I had the ve table I worked on up originally, and the tuner's timing tables, I'd be pretty close to ideal. The only issue is that's a line by line sort of thing on tunerpro and would probably take me an hour. Maybe this week I'll try. I PCM write only takes from 3-20 minutes depending on what I do though.

 

I have been fighting an intermittent P0130 and P1170 CEL since I got the Disco. You can clear it and it will go away for a while and then come back after a week or so of driving. Well, both point to something in the Bank 1 Oxygen circuit so I ordered a front and rear O2 sensor along with the Dorman purge valve thingy because I have no history at all for this vehicle so why not, right? I changed the purge valve and then the front O2 sensor without much drama. I get to the rear O2 and something looks off. It was caked all around with what might have been black epoxy or JB weld, not sure. Anyway I just grabbed the sensor with my finger and it starts to crumble away and was wiggling...great. Turns out a former owner broke off the original O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe and then just used some various fittings and JB Weld to put a new sensor inside the old sensor. Really???
Somehow or another he/she also managed to bugger up the threads of sensor bung. Good grief Charlie Brown. I booger-welded a new bung on and threaded the old sensor back in to see if it will work. It doesn't even look like it ever made contact with actual exhaust gases.

 

This weekend defined time to fish and stop cutting bait in my Discovery journey. Anything I don't have figured out for customization goes back like it was. I gotta get this machine shaken down before the snow flies in the mountains in the next 30-60 days.

So, O2 sensors went back in last night after I got back in town. There is a list of the rest of the week that hopefully will have me reporting next weekend that it is moving under it's own power.

 

Welding a new bung over an old bung on a downstream O2 is what got me to learn that pulling the post cat O2 out of the exhaust stream can make a bad cat not throw a code. I hadn't heard of a defouler at that time either. Happy coincidence I guess. Pretty funny what you learn when you are cheap and young. I don't suggest it anyway. Insert government funded disclaimer here.

Went fishing. The disco loves the 55-65mph canyon roads. Didn't get hot and my CDL worked great. My rear shocks were pretty squishy, but there's about 5 things above that on the list. It was fun and and the kiddos love the Rover as much of more than fishing.

 

4.37 gears with air lockers shipped today... Exciting.

 

going to 37s? My classic with the 4.2 motor turns 35s nicely with 4.11s.

 

I have GBR 4.43 with 35s. If I had to do it over again I'd get 4.11s
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That's what I've heard everyone say that's gone over 4.11s even thought the calculators say 4.43 or the 4.37s for 35s.