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This weekend defined time to fish and stop cutting bait in my Discovery journey. Anything I don't have figured out for customization goes back like it was. I gotta get this machine shaken down before the snow flies in the mountains in the next 30-60 days.
So, O2 sensors went back in last night after I got back in town. There is a list of the rest of the week that hopefully will have me reporting next weekend that it is moving under it's own power.
I have been fighting an intermittent P0130 and P1170 CEL since I got the Disco. You can clear it and it will go away for a while and then come back after a week or so of driving. Well, both point to something in the Bank 1 Oxygen circuit so I ordered a front and rear O2 sensor along with the Dorman purge valve thingy because I have no history at all for this vehicle so why not, right? I changed the purge valve and then the front O2 sensor without much drama. I get to the rear O2 and something looks off. It was caked all around with what might have been black epoxy or JB weld, not sure. Anyway I just grabbed the sensor with my finger and it starts to crumble away and was wiggling...great. Turns out a former owner broke off the original O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe and then just used some various fittings and JB Weld to put a new sensor inside the old sensor. Really???
Somehow or another he/she also managed to bugger up the threads of sensor bung. Good grief Charlie Brown. I booger-welded a new bung on and threaded the old sensor back in to see if it will work. It doesn't even look like it ever made contact with actual exhaust gases.
Welding a new bung over an old bung on a downstream O2 is what got me to learn that pulling the post cat O2 out of the exhaust stream can make a bad cat not throw a code. I hadn't heard of a defouler at that time either. Happy coincidence I guess. Pretty funny what you learn when you are cheap and young. I don't suggest it anyway. Insert government funded disclaimer here.
Went fishing. The disco loves the 55-65mph canyon roads. Didn't get hot and my CDL worked great. My rear shocks were pretty squishy, but there's about 5 things above that on the list. It was fun and and the kiddos love the Rover as much of more than fishing.
Last edited by Karmakannon; Sep 19, 2022 at 10:20 PM.
high gear in t-case is 1.2 and diffs are 3.54. You could go to 3.75 for 32-33 but for the money/time probably worth dealing with the rpms. Charts or GBR will say 4.11s for 33s but I just can't see that working well. Best option imo for 32-33 is to find a 1.4 high gear set for the t-case, that with factory diffs would be about perfect. Can run an older defender t-case as some came with the 1.4 but they don't have the all the ports for the sensors to plug into.
high gear in t-case is 1.2 and diffs are 3.54. You could go to 3.75 for 32-33 but for the money/time probably worth dealing with the rpms. Charts or GBR will say 4.11s for 33s but I just can't see that working well. Best option imo for 32-33 is to find a 1.4 high gear set for the t-case, that with factory diffs would be about perfect. Can run an older defender t-case as some came with the 1.4 but they don't have the all the ports for the sensors to plug into.
Interesting. In my case I don't see the need for gearing any lower unless it was making low range lower. I actually got bigger tires to lower my rpm on the highway. I'd have gone bigger if I thought it would have fit in the garage.
I understand if it's to gain some power back with bigger tires, but turning 3500rpm( a guess) on the highway constantly sounds not extremely fun. I guess of your exhaust is quite maybe you wouldn't really tell.
