I'll be curious to hear how the trail are in Big Bear, I'm heading up next weekend. With all the rain and snow we had, I'm worried the trails will be trashed.

 

Ill shoot you a message.

 

@Richard Gallant how did you know the old towers were bad? What symptoms?

I have a loud metallic single clunk when i turn in either direction over a small bump like the curb at my driveway. It only happens on the first turn of that direction and then reoccurs the first time i go the other direction over a small bump. I also have a vibration in my steering wheel only when I turn right at idle or under 5mph.

After some research, I suspect a bad/loose shock tower, but not sure... your symptoms would help me diagnose my problem.

 

@Trailmix The old ones were delaminating, you can see it in the image. Both were starting to split so it was time.

I have a slight vibration at 50 mph in mine but the tie rod ends are gone, so that gets looked at shortly.

 

Took my friend on his first trail with his new to him LR3. Trail was a 4, not very hard, and in better shape than it was a few weeks ago.
And we have pictures and video this time. No idea how to post videos though.
The sway bar disconnects worked great and smoothed out the ride. There is a noise that sounds like a spring reseating when articulating, will have to get that looked into, unless any of you know the answer by heart.

 

Finally finished my ball joint and 1-ton GM TRE conversion.

wideopen designs 7075 aluminum alloy links
new ball joints both sides
new used knuckles.
custom built steering dampener bracket. I welded precut tabs from ballistic fab to a steel 1.5” ID dampener mount.

next up:
gas tank skid in a few weeks and sliders later this summer

 

I haven't seen anybody do a GM TRE conversion on the D2, mind sharing more info? I'd be interested in knowing what TRE you used, and what you ordered for your links? Thx!

 

it’s a permanent change so beware!

I use wide open designs rock hopper 7075 aluminum links. About $300.

32.5” for the drag link and 45.5” for the track Rod. Use LH and RH TRE thread pitch. It’s an option on the drop down menu. It’s required you use antisieze lube when threading the TREs Into the links.

7° reamer. About $100. Be vary careful not to overdrill. Constantly check your angle by inserting the TRE and tightening the nut down. The goal is for the nut to sit flush all the way around. It’s easy to angle it on accident. Use low speed on a hammer drill or a mill if you have one. I drilled until the ream was just right at a full taper all the way down. You want threads to still be inside the knuckle so you can properly tighten it. It’s best to team off the truck as I fubar’d it doing it on the truck. I relaxed with new knuckles I teamed on the bench in a vice. I used a digital angle finder to check perpendicular to the knuckle surface. You’ll have to ream the pitman arm on the truck. That metal is crazy hard, but was easy to hold straight.

GM TREs part numbers ES2234L and ES2234R. $30 each give or take a few bucks. $120ish

you’ll need two of each. Get greasable ones and get the ones that have a sealed boot. Some just have a rubber cap. You’ll need to fill them with grease after install.
These allow you to just undo the nuts and twist the bar to do an alignment.

either get an alignment done or get a tool like the TMR customs alignment tool. Great product. $90ish


shoukd work with stock to up to 5” lift at those lengths. You always want around 1” or more of threads in the links.

you’ll need a 1.5” ID steering Dampner bracket. There are a ton out there. I couldn’t find a double sheet I liked so I just welded one up with parts from ballistic fab and Barnes 4WD.

way heavier duty than anything out there for a disco. Should take the weight of the car just fine.

RTE quoted me $900+ for their smaller SS version, and even with the mistake of needing new knuckles I saved $300 and have significantly stronger components and TREs I can get at any auto parts store in the country

hope that helps!

 

Today I picked up a set of typhoon wheels. Need to go find a 5th. The question is should I leave silver as they are in good enough condition, paint them up like Kalahari wheels, or paint them like kalahari wheels but use giverney green to match the truck? What do you guys think? I like all three.

 

I now have a dead battery and I still can’t open my bonnet to access it. I had to crawl under her and attach the Ctek MXS 7.0 charger to the starter’s positive connection and to the frame earth for a charge.
So far so good reconditioning the battery. We’ll see what happens tomorrow morning.