Mine is my daily driver and drive it for work a bit, I've put about 10k miles on it in the past year. Does the highway at 70-75 mph even with 3 inches of lift and Mud Terrains. The 10-12 mpg is the only real downside!

 

I got probably 3-4 years from the last time I did it

 

The things a guy will do for an extra 1/2 inch...

 

A few fun updates, white disco got new tires - switched to 255/85/16 as I got a screaming deal from a buddy on essentially brand new tires. The skinnies just look right on a d2 and was glad that the new tires cleaned up some low speed noises and shimmying.

Junkyard run this past weekend mainly for my classic but grabbed a CDL shift linkage for the green D2.

Not that anyone really cares about classics here but I did snag an original RTE front bumper as well as a manual pedal box and shifter, will try and go back this weekend to grab the trans itself..

anyone local to denver looking for a front bumper I'll be selling the tubular one off my classic. Super strong bumper that with a little modifying would look real sharp.

 

Never time to work on my own stuff haha. Finally got the bad engine out.

Today's goals are timing chain on new (new to me, from junkyard) engine, front cover and oil pan reinstall on new engine. Going to move over the new oil pump I just put on before losing #4. Also transferring the new water pump.

Since I had these heads checked, I am going to use them with the "new" engine along with new head bolts and gaskets.

 

Very excited to source the correct size post to replace the one on my bumper and get this mounted up and in use!

 

Is this a swing out spare hanger??

 

you bet, pulled it off of a D1 with a RTE rear bumper, i believe the swing out was from a company called high country but can't seem to find out too much info on them. My bumper someone had welded or built in a post for a swing out but I never got around to building one......so here I am and will cut out and replace the old post (too small of diameter) and install one that will fit the bearings for this one. Real cool is it ties in to the rear door so once unlatched it will move with the door and not act like a normal swing out that you'd have to open all the way and lock in place before opening the door.

will need to make a new tire mount though as the d1 has a different lug pattern. should be simple enough.

 

Took the new to me HSE for a spin today and met some good pals you all know too well. The M and S lights. Went on to learn that it’s about 15 different things that can throw them but that the battery might be one of them.

So off to NAPA I went while in limp mode, tossed in a new battery, cleared the code, aaaaaaaand they are sticking with me for the time being.

A few on/off cycles took care of them but it looks like the XYZ switch repair is next on the list for me.

Also replaced my 20 year old D2 arms with the AB D1 retro kit with some 21” wipers that are a little too close to the edge for me. I don’t hate the look of the D1 arms but I don’t love them either. The D2 arms make things look a little more modern but what the hell was Land Rover thinking getting away from the traditional shepherds hook design that works perfectly well?

Also heard a little chirping from around the ABS controller… anyone have an idea? Truck was off and cold. Listen cloooosely.

 

You're correct there are over a dozen faults that can trigger the M&S lights. Starting with the battery wasn't a bad idea, but check and double check your battery connections. Make sure they are clean and tight. After that, we always recommend getting the transmission codes read.

A faulty XYZ switch is just one of the many faults that can trigger the lights. One way to test the XYZ is to observe the gear indicator in the instrument cluster and the red LEDs on the shifter bezel. If they correctly display PRND21 as you move the shifter through its range the problem is less likely to be the XYZ switch. And if the indicators don't display correctly the XYZ may just need an adjustment and not a repair (or replacement).

I don't know where you're located and if there may be a forum member nearby with a diagnostic tool capable of reading the trans codes.

This noise is completely normal. It's been discussed here several times over the years, but I don't recall ever seeing an answer to why it makes the quiet ticking sound. Doesn't matter.