Tony if you go out locally for a coil have them cross reference Bosch 0-221-122-392, that is the coil number for a 3.9. Get a cheap one, your just testing it within the ignition system. Keep on going with the tests from the Rave. Don't just stop at the coil..... you never know. Your getting spark, if you have fuel too then it might just be that the isn't anything really wrong but since I don't have a dizzy run motor to double check your readings we'll have to go at this one step at a time. I've tried reading the ETM's ignition circuit and it aint laid out simple, have to bounce around page to page. I'll do my best.

 

Okay I will go to next tests

 

Test 4 Pick-up Coil Resistance:

It tested perfect 3k ohm. The only test I have left is the coil wire to the top of the rotor bug. My sister is at church and as soon as she returns I will have her crack the engine over for the test.

Make sure I mentioned this, I did changed the fuel filter out and the pressure seems to have jumped from about 30 to 35 before ignition.

I also cranked the engine over and it sounds like it wants to start but still no go.

 

All good news. If you have spark and fuel then all that's left is timing. The plugs have to be soaked by now.

 

I will need some direction on timing and should I still change out the coil? yes right? do you think that even though there is spark that the negative post is grounding out the firing even with spark? Also is timing adjustable? I remember reading that it is not??


Many questions...

 

Without a timing light all you can do is static time the dizzy. Cylinder 1 at TDC of compression stroke, rotor should be pointing to Cylinder 1 on cap. Have you checked the vacuum line to the distributors vacuum pot to make sure it's whole and connected on both ends with no cracks? I'm still out on the coil, should be zero volts. You put your meter on the positive + battery terminal and negative - on coil lug right? Ignition switch off and on same reading, what about when turning it over? Voltage should climb.

 

Test 6 Rotor Arm test

Failed..spark at center of rotor arm

 

Just ran test again with positive battery to negative post on coil.
Key on 12+ volts
Cranking voltage drops to 0 then increases to 2.5 voltage

 

Yes on checking on vacuum line to both ends. New hose and all looks good, no cracks.

 

Remove the rotor and check that it isn't cracked. If it's not cracked clean it with Windex, dry it, reinstall. If it's cracked super glue it. Do the same Windex cleaning for the inside of the cap.