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I thought I would share that I am having the same issue on my 2007 Range Rover Supercharged. It started showing the message "transmission fault traction reduced" when I would start it up. Had it at the Land Rover service center and they diagnosed the issue as the rear differential locking motor, which should solve the issue. In total, parts and labor it is going to cost $1,035.
I really need some assistance, my Discovery 3 HSE has a Transmission fault and reduced traction, it does not engage in 4x4What could be the problem and how can it be sorted.
I really need some assistance, my Discovery 3 HSE has a Transmission fault and reduced traction, it does not engage in 4x4What could be the problem and how can it be sorted.
Please HELP!!! I have never been more frustrated with a vehicle in my life as much as I have been with my 2008 Land Rover LR2. I bought it as is for $5600 (90k) 2 years ago. Never had any issues until recently. It’s just a grocery list of problems. I fix one thing and then another breaks leaving me perplexed and broke. I’m ready to toss in the key but before I do that I’d like to post one last thing in hopes anyone can tell me what’s wrong with my truck and if it’s even worth fixing. I’m doing everything I can to not have a car payment but it’s to the point where it’s either have a monthly car payment and drive a reliable vehicle or continue stressing and worrying every day about whether or not my vehicle is going to get me to where I need to go without breaking down and costing me more money. Mind you, all my work is DIY. I can’t afford taking it to a dealer. They just end up *** raping you (excuse the language). Anyway, I’ll try not to make this too long and will explain everything as best as I can from when the issues started. I was in a front end accident last year that caused my front clip to bend inward damaging my radiator. Front end clip and radiator replaced but then my truck wouldn’t start. All fuses were good. I had no issues with it starting before. I noticed a clicking noise when I tried to start it so I figured it was the starter motor. Starter motor replaced. I had no issues for a week and then I would have excess smoke coming from exhaust and reduced engine performance, hard start and vibrations in idle. I was burning gas like crazy and had multiple misfires. I didn’t have the money to replace sparks and coils so I removed them and noticed coolant all over the plugs and coils from the coolant spraying all over. I cleaned and dried them off as best as I could and reconnected them. Started no problem. Ran for a couple days and now I’m getting nothing when I try to start it. I had my battery tested. It’s good. I’m getting 3 codes P0365 PD, P0340 PD AND U0121 PD with a dash message saying transmission fault traction reduced. Ugh! I just can’t catch a break with this thing. Is this an electrical problem? I feel like every time I replace something it leads to another problem. What does that message mean and where do I start?? I’m so frustrated. I checked all the fuses again..battery good, starter good…I just don’t understand. Oh and I keep losing coolant. I go through a thing of coolant in 2 days. lol my truck is a mess. Please help!!!!
Coolant will cause electrical problems, and it basically never evaporates so you have to fix the leak and then rinse it all off.
After it's all dry with no coolant, see if you still have gremlins.
Also these cars are VERY sensitive to a weak battery... so get that tested by a shop or auto parts store, or buy a DIY tester. I'd recommend dosconnecting the battery from the car to test it accurately. If it's 5+ years old, almost certainly needs to be replaced.
This car isn't going to be cheap as a used vehicle.
A 2008 with 100k miles will need some work done to be reliable. Most of it can be DIY, but it takes some effort to learn how and some of it is pretty complicated. I'd guess about $10k if you pay someone, maybe $4k if you DIY. I did all the work as a mid-life refresh because I really like the vehicle.
Please HELP!!! I have never been more frustrated with a vehicle in my life as much as I have been with my 2008 Land Rover LR2. I bought it as is for $5600 (90k) 2 years ago. Never had any issues until recently. It’s just a grocery list of problems. I fix one thing and then another breaks leaving me perplexed and broke. I’m ready to toss in the key but before I do that I’d like to post one last thing in hopes anyone can tell me what’s wrong with my truck and if it’s even worth fixing. I’m doing everything I can to not have a car payment but it’s to the point where it’s either have a monthly car payment and drive a reliable vehicle or continue stressing and worrying every day about whether or not my vehicle is going to get me to where I need to go without breaking down and costing me more money. Mind you, all my work is DIY. I can’t afford taking it to a dealer. They just end up *** raping you (excuse the language). Anyway, I’ll try not to make this too long and will explain everything as best as I can from when the issues started. I was in a front end accident last year that caused my front clip to bend inward damaging my radiator. Front end clip and radiator replaced but then my truck wouldn’t start. All fuses were good. I had no issues with it starting before. I noticed a clicking noise when I tried to start it so I figured it was the starter motor. Starter motor replaced. I had no issues for a week and then I would have excess smoke coming from exhaust and reduced engine performance, hard start and vibrations in idle. I was burning gas like crazy and had multiple misfires. I didn’t have the money to replace sparks and coils so I removed them and noticed coolant all over the plugs and coils from the coolant spraying all over. I cleaned and dried them off as best as I could and reconnected them. Started no problem. Ran for a couple days and now I’m getting nothing when I try to start it. I had my battery tested. It’s good. I’m getting 3 codes P0365 PD, P0340 PD AND U0121 PD with a dash message saying transmission fault traction reduced. Ugh! I just can’t catch a break with this thing. Is this an electrical problem? I feel like every time I replace something it leads to another problem. What does that message mean and where do I start?? I’m so frustrated. I checked all the fuses again..battery good, starter good…I just don’t understand. Oh and I keep losing coolant. I go through a thing of coolant in 2 days. lol my truck is a mess. Please help!!!!
First of all, please use PARAGRAPHS in your posts. This is very annoying to read.
The first two errors are camshaft position A and B sensor errors, the third is a message related to losing communication with the Anti-Lock Brake System. As Merlin said, check the battery, make sure it is good and it is fully charged. Make sure the camshaft position sensor connectors are in fact connected and solid. Download the service manual (the link is available elsewhere in the forum) and go to page 625 to see there they are located on the top of the engine block, right hand side. The traction control system will not work correctly if the ABS module is not talking to the computer. The connector for that is to the left of the ABS module itself in the engine compartment, the diagram showing it is on page 504 of the service manual. Check to make sure that was connected correctly.
Also, CLEAR all the errors and try to start the engine, but don't drive it. Then check what error codes are still there. This eliminates lingering codes from previous problems that may no longer be there.
10-28-2021, 03:58 PM
I have never been more frustrated with a vehicle in my life as much as I have been with my 2008 Land Rover LR2. I bought it as is for $5600 (90k) 2 years ago. Never had any issues until recently. It’s just a grocery list of problems. I fix one thing and then another breaks leaving me perplexed and broke. I’m ready to toss in the key but before I do that I’d like to post one last thing in hopes anyone can tell me what’s wrong with my truck and if it’s even worth fixing. I’m doing everything I can to not have a car payment but it’s to the point where it’s either have a monthly car payment and drive a reliable vehicle or continue stressing and worrying every day about whether or not my vehicle is going to get me to where I need to go without breaking down and costing me more money. Mind you, all my work is DIY. I can’t afford taking it to a dealer. They just end up *** raping you (excuse the language). Anyway, I’ll try not to make this too long and will explain everything as best as I can from when the issues started. I was in a front end accident last year that caused my front clip to bend inward damaging my radiator. Front end clip and radiator replaced but then my truck wouldn’t start. All fuses were good. I had no issues with it starting before. I noticed a clicking noise when I tried to start it so I figured it was the starter motor. Starter motor replaced. I had no issues for a week and then I would have excess smoke coming from exhaust and reduced engine performance, hard start and vibrations in idle. I was burning gas like crazy and had multiple misfires. I didn’t have the money to replace sparks and coils so I removed them and noticed coolant all over the plugs and coils from the coolant spraying all over. I cleaned and dried them off as best as I could and reconnected them. Started no problem. Ran for a couple days and now I’m getting nothing when I try to start it. I had my battery tested. It’s good. I’m getting 3 codes P0365 PD, P0340 PD AND U0121 PD with a dash message saying transmission fault traction reduced. Ugh! I just can’t catch a break with this thing. Is this an electrical problem? I feel like every time I replace something it leads to another problem. What does that message mean and where do I start?? I’m so frustrated. I checked all the fuses again..battery good, starter good…I just don’t understand. Oh and I keep losing coolant. I go through a thing of coolant in 2 days. lol my truck is a mess. Please help!!!!
