Ok since I know no one here and now seem to have made enemies with everyone due to thinking some vendor was trying to push their wares....let’s re try this!
To begin I’m not going to dump a lot of money into this thing. I find European vehicles to be far to unreliable to waste thousands of dollars on them in order to have a mechanic hobby. If it is going to be an overly expensive repair or cost hundreds simply to diagnose I will send this thing to the crusher.
My main concern is that the trans is trashed. I found out that a few weeks ago while I was out on the road working, a mechanic replaced the trans filter/pan and a wire adapter that was leaking fluid. Not only was it ran low on fluid but I have found out the mechanic refilled the trans with Mobile 1 synthetic fluid and from what I have seen these things only use specific LR fluid.
The trans worked fine after this repair and has not acted up until this new situation.
Will this fluid substitution cause the clutches to fail?
One odd thing I notice in the data stream is when the selector is placed in drive the 1st gear solenoid power has a slow increase (3 to 4 seconds) before full voltage is received. Is this normal or is this a sign of an electrical issue?

 

As long as the fluid meets spec you should be fine. Many have used products from Amsoil and Royal purple with no issues.

Could be a solenoid but I will let the better versed in transmissions answer.

Abran while he does run a shop that is one of if not the best on the west coast for these trucks, he is not affiliated with Lucky8 he was just giving a recommendation on where the tool could be found.

 

Thanks for the kind words @ArmyRover .

I've never monitored the live values during that situation you mention. As armyrover said, as long as the fluid meets the spec, no issues.

obviously running a trans low on fluid is problenatic.

In my experience, most cases of early failure happen from worn brass bushings.

a solenoid pack will cost $350 ish, fluid $50, plus your time, If there is an actual problem with the solenoids.

it sounds like you really don’t like the vehicle and that it was not well maintained by the previous owner. More and more deferred maintenance issues will appear so you should weigh that into your crusher debate.

have you heard about the inside of the diff cases being painted and that paint releases and ruins the bearing races?

 

@Bowtiemen No enemies made, man....I was just laying it flat for you. Welcome to the message board, sincerely.

Here is the thing...well maybe two things: You get yourself a good LR3, put a little TLC into it, and you won't be sorry. I've had my '05 since....well to be honest it was mine before it left the factory, but I've had it in my possession since June of 2005 and I love it as much now as I did then. Maybe more because I've done so much in it (Yukon Territory, Hells Canyon, countless local trips) and they sort of get cooler as they age. In fact, as I mentioned earlier, I bought another LR3 last spring. My wife has completely annexed that one; it's hers. In my opinion, the LR3/4 are two of the best 4x4s ever made in this vehicle segment, and the way things are going, perhaps the last of its kind. Body-on-Frame, all the off-roading mechanicals needed, slick air suspension, luxurious but still utilitarian interior. They kind of need to be "ruggedized" along the way..if you see an opportunity to make something more robust or more protected, it helps. That could mean armor, or re-connecting electrical connections throwing in dielectric grease and taping the **** out of them...I went around the whole thing with that plastic wire tubing and protected exposed wires. Things like that...I spray the frame with BOESHIELD (an anti-corrosion protectant) every year. Stay ahead of it, and you'll never be left stranded.

Okay....that was item 1. Here is item 2, and it will bring us back full circle: an IIDTool from GAP is as essential to your LR3 toolkit as a flat head screwdriver. That is why Abran was pimping it earlier.

So....you've said you love your girlfriend and I believe you. Stick with this LR3, or find one that is "right" for her, and after 2 years, we'll see who you love more, HER....or her LR3!!!

 

I’ve been running over what I remember from reading codes (I’m out working all week and only around the LR3 on the weekends). I recall seeing some areas had codes of “lost communication”. I saw this on the transfer case and I know somewhere else but can’t remember which system. With the failure to engage first gear I am leaning to electrical issues (hopefully not hard part failure) being the issue. I will have to start checking connections this weekend as a starting point and possible begin pin out testing wires.
Main question now is does anyone know where I can find an actual wire schematic and listing for where modules and ecu’s are located.
There is one other issue that has been ongoing, it’s a air suspension warning light and a code of “gallery not venting”. I haven’t been able to find solutions to this. The compressor airs up properly and the vehicle will raise and lower normally until the code sets. It sets when it wants and may go for days with no issues. Maybe in the electrical gremlin search I’ll fix this....if I’m gonna dream I gotta dream big.

 

The solenoids will vary in voltage while shifting, (usually between two values) but I do not ever remember seeing a slow increase in voltage as you described. The solenoids can be problematic in these ZF transmissions.
Did you record the voltage (s) of the 1st gear solenoid to compare with a properly functioning one?
Was any other maintenance done before the issue popped up?
Did the tech who changed the trans fluid mess with shifter linkage at the transmission by chance? (first thing I thought of when you mentioned the "drifting" between gears when selecting gears, second would be the internal slide inside the trans that moves the spool, but would only be a potential issue if the valve body was removed and the slide was installed incorrectly).

 

And battery voltage is critical in these LR3's. Lotsa modules to keep happy. I'd start with the battery and charging system then try checking the solenoid values again.

 

Gallery not venting is a stuck exhaust valve in the compressor. If you have the original Hitachi compressor you can get a valve kit, basically a plunger and spring. There are probably some YouTube vids on it.

for wiring diagrams, if you tell me which module I can pull up the schematics.

those lost comms codes are most likely just “gossip”. Every 3 I do a full scan on has them. The key would be if every/most modules are losing comms with one specific module.

 

Spent today checking connections and haven’t found anything that even looks remotely corroded or dirty. Played around with driving it around. I would get it up to speed and clear the code. The trans would start working properly until I slowed down and it needed to go into first. It would free spin for a few seconds and then shift into fail safe with a firm bump. Also noticed the alternator would stop charging, rev the engine and it charges again, let the rpm drop back around idle and it stops charging again. Repeated this several times. Rev the engine and the charging system works, 13.8 volts, let idle and the light comes on and voltage drops to 13.3.
This thing has a ghost in it !!?