In any event (and somewhat more lucidly) :

I have self tested the motor and the codes have not cleared.

i have ECU flashing ready for both the transmission and the rear diff. GAP has provided this.

Should i I be checking anything else before doing this?

-of note:

I had had also read that the brake light switch can cause these issues (esp the warning “traction control reduced”) I replaced this recently too since I was getting the cruise control warning.

 

Is a self-test the same as calibration?

 

This is what I’d like to know too.

If its different. How is it done?

 

Calibration is different than self test.

Never done it with GAP but it’s in the rear diff ecu. Rear diff ecu, special functions, calibrate.

 

Email gap customer support they can probably send you step by step directions on the calibration. I am 2000 miles from my gap tool and LR3

 

Emailed this morning. They said there is no special function on the GAP too for Calibration - the vehicle does it itself and with the self test.

Have been advised to try the ECU flash.

 

Odd. From RAVE:

If the control module is replaced, T4 must be connected to the vehicle and the electronic rear differential control module self-calibration procedure must be performed. This procedure must also be performed if the motor or differential assembly is replaced.

 

Update - flashed the ECU with new firm ware - no change in faults or error messages.

 

Update to this:

I recently took it to a LR specialist indy shop here. They said it needed to be reset - which I knew - and they had the right tool.

However - the thing wouldn't reset at all. They said It may be the replacement motor, but I don't think that to be the case - I know it wasn't new - refurbed (as most of them are) - but I don't think it's the motor.

Because there are a lot of faults that have "lost contact with" and "missing messages" etc. the shop suggested they look at the control module (dynamics control module). that sits behind the battery - as it is known to be overrun with leaking battery acid. Sure enough, it was green. Now they didn't say it would be the THE fix for this - but they said it probably should be replaced regardless. This is a ~$500 part with about an hour of labour to put in and reprogram.

Any thoughts about this and whether this will reset the diff and get rid of the "traction reduced" error message?

 

If it’s the silver module that your talking about. Clean it with CRC Electronic cleaner, and a soft bristle tooth brush. Clean the harness and the module coat with dielectric grease and see if its better