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I had noticed my front left was a little low before a weekend trip to the Fremont-Winema National Forest. Topped it up, checked for any obvious nails, found none, and then drove hours from home and then miles into the desolate and beautiful Oregon Outback. Decided to check the pressure Saturday night, and seating the gauge was the straw that broke the camel's back for the aluminum TPMS valve stem. Cracked. With tire deflating fast I got the spare installed by sunset. With miles of washboards and then highway to go on Sunday, my decision a few years ago to buy a full size spare wheel and tire to replace the space saver in my SE truck was vindicated. Knew it would come in handy one day.
Did research tonight and ordered a couple of new sensors (one to replace, one as a road spare). I hadn't heard of it but did find a few threads on here of others who've experienced the same issue. Apparently in 2018 the original Siemens TPMS design was updated with a compatible unit made by Continental with upgraded hardware. From a vendor website:
Notes: TPMS 315hz. OEM by VDO please note to a change by VDO in 2018 Part # SE53001 was changed to SE52081 From an application stand point, they can mix and match; SE52081 will work with SE53001. The difference is in the sensor design. SE52081 is the newer TG1C design with upgraded hardware compared to the old TG1B SE53001, but they are functionally the same.
Only other fault for the trip was the flashing red PARK brake light coming on after a severe washboard up Paulina Peak. I waited until home to mess with it, but setting and resetting the EPB cleared it up. Despite the issues a great 600+ mile weekend.
well after 2+ years with the LR3 I got to do my 1st roadside hack job to get home, haha.
Up in the hills near Gunstock NH I noticed the fans were loud and not turning off. Pulled over, popped the hood and see coolant everywhere.
Sure enough, the bleeder T cracked on me (the T itself, not the screw) and left me with no coolant left. Was able to get all the pieces of the T out of the hose ends, and got just enough of it to connect the 2 ends together and run without the bleeder. Made sure to use about half a roll of electrical tape on it though to make sure it wouldn't leak or let go on me. So did the hike we had planned and let it cool off. Took a buddy's car to town to get coolant, came back and started filling it back up. Got it to temp, topped off the coolant and let it run with the cap off the reservoir to bleed it as best as possible. Still had to stop 2x to burp it some more and top off the coolant but she made it the 120 miles home without a hiccup.
I replaced my missing wheel center cap and replaced my worn out hood struts. Hood struts were only $20 for the pair on Amazon. I had used this brand on my Land Cruiser with no problems. Part number for the LR3 in the picture below. Next project is to figure out how to tighten up my loose OE off road lights.
Thanks! I havnt had any hood struts for years. Most people dont know that hinges can lock in the vertical position. BUT, for $20 thats very tempting.
I didn’t know the hinges did that but for only $20 for the pair it’s hard to pass up. Plus if you are limited on overhead height when under the hood you might not have the space to get the hood vertical. The fit on these was good, snapped in place just fine.
Loose off road lights have been fixed. Engine oil and diff fluid changes are on the back burner because I fly out of town for 2 weeks in a couple days. I’ll get them changed when I come back.
I'm looking forward to getting home (been at Fort Sam since labor day) and firing the LR3 up and heading to MAR. Flight home lands at 1130 pm. Get home unpack/pack sleep a couple hours and hit the road.
Fingers crossed the Land Rover doesn't act all Land Rover lol
