Nice!! I did that a a new pan with drain for the next time. I cant say mine shifted any better afterwards though, maybe a little smoother nothing huge.

What does "reset" the transmission mean?

 

Part of the service suite available in a Gap is "adaptations reset" for engine and transmission, you would clear those values and then the drivetrain would use the factory default values and "relearn" all of the operations. The relearn process reportedly makes for a harsh shifting transmission and it might take a couple weeks to adjust itself pretty much back to where it started when it was reset. Unless there is a specific reason like a rebuild or new solenoids it's best to leave that alone. Or so the internet said.

 

In the process of major landscaping in my backyard, terracing a sloping block with a place for a portable hot tub and building a 6x6m garage.
loaded up the back of the disco with a bulk bag of approx 500kg of crushed rock, it barely knew it was there.

 

Got my pressure test kit in, and discovered the cause of my coolant puddle when hot.

 

Mounted up my goofy little shovel and axe today!
I used some Quickfist clamps bolted to the plastic trunk panel. I'm sure at least the axe will be in the way of the 3rd row seat but I almost never use it anyway.

 

Ive been really wanting an actual functional screen in my lr3 for a while, but I also didn’t wanna replace my screen cause it still “works”, so I finally pulled the trigger and I bought a 9” carplay screen off amazon for $100 that came with a forward and backwards camera. I spent a couple hours designing some mounts and 3d printed them so I could fix a little more seamlessly vs the suction cup ones they provided. I didn’t want to use any adhesive, so these are friction fit into the tiny gaps between the vents and screen. I gave it a pretty good test drive today and she held sturdy. This is just my POC so it’s a little rough around the edges. I’m also ultimately planning on running the wires behind the dash from a little gap top right above the vent so they will be barley visible. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out so far, the best part imo is that everything is still original.

 

Very nice! I need to make something similar for my iPad. I bought a holder, but it is large and cumbersome.

 

I was working the rover clearing more trees on the property last week and it seems I drove over a large root on the trail as I was dragging a tree trunk,
It hit the rear heater coolant line and then hit the body coating. I have ordered a replacement part (Good thing I don't go into town to buy those $5 cups of coffee because after THAT purchase I will have money to buy a double latte, double camel two shot whipped cream something or other in the near future). As "Trail Fix" I cut the aluminium tubing and patched in a 5/8 (16mm) heater hose with 2 hose clamps.

I have avoided adding rock sliders for many reasons. Mostly the weight and amount of time I would actually be on rocky trails bad enough that I would need them. And of course the cost.


It took a small hit on just one hose and then again on the body.


Jeff

 

So quick question for you ESA experts-Every morning I fire up the Rescue Rover, compressor kicks on, then the yellow light comes on. I plug in the gap, clear the suspennsion fault, sometimes it stays happy and sometimes it needs a reset. So I will check some live values and check the galley PSI, and some times I am getting 255 psi...usually right before it dumps back down to 37-40 and throws the light again. Is 255 a tad high, like my relay is sticking? The usual code is somethig along the line of out of specification. Sometimes filling to slow, sometimes filling too fast. Sometimes filling just perfect and that's crazy! Just kidding on the last one.

 

Helps to know the fault. 255 I think is the max value that can be recorded? Is so, I tend to think the sensor or wiring for it (or connector) is an issue. Especially with the weird codes you get about pressures.