We just installed a new battery last night. Everything was fine a few days ago. I started it, pulled it into the shop and up on ramps to change the oil, then it would not start after we were done. The voltage was 10.4. I charged it up overnight and the voltage showed 11.7, so I figured it was toast. Took it to the local auto parts store and said it was dead and I wanted a new one, the guy grabbed the battery teater and said that they test all batteries to make sure the customer needs a new battery and that it may be a different problem with the car. He then "it was dead". (at least there was "some " level of customer service.

It is hard enough to change the battery under normal conditions, but with it being up on the ramps added a whole new level of pain. Normally I can just apply the BIFFI method (Brute Force and Friggin Ignorance) and get it squeezed into the battery box , but it was to high for me to lift the battery this time. I followed the advice of Christian from LRTimes and removed the air filter box and the front part of the battery box to make for more room. More work, but less stress on my old body.

It started just fine this morning but I am sure I will not get 6 1/2 years out of this battery like we did the last one.

Jeff

 

Well this is annoying.
I rebuilt my compressor whch was looking pretty worn inside, put it all back together and it still isn't right. It pumps right up to about 48-52 psi, plateaus for a bit then turns off.
Any ideas on that?

 

To expand on my day getting educated in the black arts of LR3 EAS-replaced the piston seal, sliding ring and orings and such, had already repacked the drier, replaced that valve plunger and spring, only to have the compressor do the exact same sort of misbehavior that it's been exhibiting was pretty disheartening. But we are Rover people and don't give up that easy!
So, figured that I should check for leaks, so dug some stuff out of the garage and hooked the system up to my shop compressor. I was able to pressurize the system to 130 psi, as displayed in live values, the limits of the shop pump, and using the valve testing was able to raise the rear springs quite easiliy. The front springs, not so easy. I did get them to normal height and a bit but they do not raise as freely as the rear.
So now I wonder if I am fighting a pressure problem in the compressor, a valve problem for the front or both at the same time. Also thinking about how long it will stay on the springs if I air them up manually while I figure out my next move.

 

You really need to make your own thread to diagnose this. Having the shop compressor will help a lot in doing so as well as a proper code reader to read Rover air suspension codes.

 

I did this today. I removed my LR4 display that has served me well for years and was a nice upgrade for any LR3. Then I tossed this thing in. I will have a write-up at some point about it. So I never really wanted to swap my Nav screen because I liked the 4x4 info. But recently at least one maker has taken care of that issue, sorta. By sorta I mean my rear locker does not show up, it may not for anyone I think. And the ride height display shows standard all the time yet the terrain selection screen does show the proper height selection. There are some other small quicks, but there is some pretty cool stuff too that I did not know about at all!

The steering angle sensor is read, so the 4x4 info screen actively shows the front wheel direction all the time. And the rear camera overlay (my camera is broke) bends the grid based on steering angle too.
If you open a door, an overlay of a generic vehicle pops up and shows you which door is open. Not sure about tailgate yet, but it does show the specific door.
When reversing you also get parking sensor overlay and it shows the specific sensors that are being triggered!

There is more to go over, I will put that in the write-up. But I gotta say that install was super easy, just messy with A LOT of cables.

 

I got a few weeks ago a cheap CarPlay display for my D3 and eventually installed it today. Temperatures were above freezing so I figured that the adhesive would stick. In hindsight I should have installed it more center and slightly closer. The teens sitting in the right hand seat demand control of the playlist nowadays… can’t only listen to country music 😎😂

The display is crisp, responsive to touch. No idea about audio since I configured it so that the iPhone talks BT directly still to my mObridge over Bluetooth for calls and streaming (A2DP) and keeps that on the MOST bus. The phone also talks Bluetooth CarPlay to the display unit.

All that remains is to hide the USB cable better and add the rear camera.

 

I do like DakotaTravelers solution. I''m on the lookout to upgrade the infotainment system, especially now that my nav system has died and I can't be bothered to go fix it. Looking forward to the write=up.

 

I just joined up as this forum seems more active than Expedition Portal.

I was considering getting rid of my LR3 after ~10 years of ownership, but could not really think of a good replacement, plus prices on everything are just stupid. Instead I decided to get some issues sorted out that I had been slacking on - replaced the shift valves/solenoids, an O2 sensor, the dead hood struts and threw on some 17" wheels and bigger BFGs to freshen up the looks.

 

Yeah there really aren't good replacement options. How did you fit 17s? Smaller brake calipers?

 

Grind some metal off the ca;ipers? I did that on a Suzuki Sidekick to install some 15" rims. Thoce calipers had kind of a "fin" cast into them, and it actually looked like it was to prevent people rom mounting 15" rims. Cab't say how it would go on a LR3.
Maybe spacers would help. Or swappinng to V6 brake parts.