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Fuel Leaking From Around Injector

Old Jan 15, 2025 | 12:30 AM
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Question Fuel Leaking From Around Injector

I have a 2013 LR5 with the 5.0L engine. I have a significant fuel leak coming from the LH side of the engine. After spending a little time looking at it and taking a few things off I can see the gasoline is coming from around the fuel rail on the drivers (LH) side between the back two coil packs when the engine is running. I can't really see exactly where it comes from without taking off the wiring loom that covers up the fuel rail. Based on all I have been able to find, I think the only possible problem could be a failed o-ring on one of those two injectors where they mount to the fuel rail. Does that sound correct? Is there any other possible thing around there that could be leaking? Assuming it is the o-ring, it appears I have to get that wiring loom out of the way to get the fuel rail off, is that correct? From tracing all the wires it looks like some of them are connected behind the thermostat housing, do I truly need to drain the coolant and remove those coolant hoses and thermostat housing to be able to disconnect the wires down there? Also I'm assuming that I just need to replace the o-ring between the injector and the fuel rail and I don't actually need to remove the injector at all, does that sound correct? Thanks for any help.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2025 | 11:36 AM
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I thought I would follow-up on this in case others run into a similar problem. It turns out it was a bad O-Ring on injector on Injector #6 (second to back on LH side). It wasn't too bad to get to, it took me 3-4 hours mainly because I was figuring it out as I went. If I had to do it again it would probably take a couple of hours. Here are the things you need to remove. Unfortunately, I wasn't thinking about documenting it so don't have great pictures, but I did take some for my own reference as I went which I will attach:
1. Engine cover
2. Intake Pipes and LH airbox


3. Coolant line that goes from reservoir to radiator and then Upper Fan Shroud


4. One little section of coolant pipe right above the thermostat housing. Also the little hose that goes from that larger rubber hose to the throttle body. I just removed it from the hose side and left it inserted to the throttle body. There is also a hard plastic coolant pipe that connects to a rubber hose right next to the throttle body.


5. Now you should be able to start. undoing all of the connections for the wires that come out of the wiring loom that sits on top of the the fuel rail. They were all fairly easy except for the very bottom one that goes into the temperature sensor. You have to work you hand down next to the fan and contort it in a weird angle. If you have the ability to take the fan off that would make it much easier.
6. Ok next take of the plastic box next to the LH bank of the engine. It comes off in several pieces. First the top just comes off after releasing a few clips. Then the side of the box comes off with a few more clips. Next the very back side piece that goes into the fire wall. Then you can take off the bottom. It splits in two. You need to take off 2 bolts for the electronic box and then there is a nut that goes on a stud underneath. There are two other nuts on studs that you have to remove, one on the front and one on the back, then half the bottom of the box comes off which is what you need.


7. Ok now. you can start disconnecting the wires that go to the coils and the injectors. I just started at the front and moved my way back. You will be able to lift the wiring loom a little bit more after you disconnect the wires on each cylinder. After you have them all removed you can work the wiring loom out of the way.
8. Next remove the 4 could packs. 1 T30 bolt each
9 . Next remove the high pressure fuel line that goes over the engine. Remove the two t30 bolts on the top and then loosen the nut on both sides and it comes right off.
10. Finally you remove the 4 bolts holding the fuel rail and then I was able to use a little bit of leverage to pry it off.
11. I was able to remove the o-rings on each of the injectors pretty easily with a pick tool without removing the injector itself.
12. Reverse order to put it back together. Don't forget to top it off with coolant as you will loose 1 - 2 quarts.
 
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