When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Not being very knowledgable on these things, it looked jet black and shiny with a normal looking consistency and viscosity.
I suspect my assessment may be about as accurate as a stormtrooper with a blaster.
Yellowstone is some good stuff; I actually had a glass last night! But my go-to is Weller or New Riff, which is a local distillery right across the river in northern KY. New Riff was started by the same guy who owns The Party Source, one of, if not the biggest liquor store in the country.
The rear wiper could not be replaced. It gets almost no use anyway so not really a bother.
A few minutes to remove old and replace with new Rear wiper rubber serves as it’s own washer jet. Activate service mode to remove blade. Washer nozzle attaches to base of blade. Multiple washer jets/pores in blade. Clever.
This was a fiendishly difficult job. Broad steps are below. Electrical connectors, clamps, clips, hoses, and factory torque values have been omitted.
A little earlier than the scheduled maintenance. Use profile may justify doing it earlier than the prescribed 63,000 miles. Seeing the plugs and feeling how they came out, I think this sort of time-frame is reasonable.
Verify spark plugs are correctly gapped. 0.6-0.65mm. The OEM plugs LR178881 should be correct from factory and should not be adjusted.
Disconnect battery
Support hood and remove struts
Remove Wiper arms and place to side.
Remove front cowl
Remove Air duct
Remove Engine Cross-member
Remove Front secondary bulkhead
Put the Charge air cooler into service position. (This was a nightmarishly difficult step due to the short hoses)
Remove ignition coils
Remove spark plugs
Replace spark plugs with new.
Reposition charge air cooler. Again insanely difficult.
Replace all the removed stuff in reverse order.
Beverage(s)
Looking into the spark plug housing and the cylinder below. This hose was a nightmare to remove and reattach All back together again Cheers. A disturbingly small measure.
One minor snafu.
A cross-threaded bolt in the engine crossmember.
This is likely from before courtesy of my dealership. I will need to re-tap that thread and torque it down. M10 55Nm on the bolt.
Everything else torqued to spec. A few unused clips in the engine bay and some missing bolts I replaced now in use again. (Another of my dealer’s signatures.)
Well done! Hopefully before I get to 60k someone will post a more in-depth video of that short cooler hose with some tips and tricks!
Yeah I'd love to know how better to remove and reattach it. Some sort of hose removal tool if one exists would be the right job. There are two others that were tricky too but this one was a real bear.
30 minutes to completing tidy up and having oil ready for disposal.
simple as you’d like.
Recut the thread for the M10 bolt cross threaded at an earlier time. Engine cross member. Recut an M10 bolt I had from the AC armor to match. All good again.
Both supposedly lifetime fills but that doesn't seem to make much sense to me.
Edit: Both actually listed as service items at the 105,000me service. Similarly transfer case and rear diff are listed at that mileage too. Seems very long.
ZF have 80,000km service interval on their own spec sheet so perhaps this is worth following. I'm there or there abouts at 55,000 miles.
Edit: ZF now recommend a 150k km service interval. Shorter if arduous driving conditions are met.
Pan, filter , new bolts and plugs. Service manual also shows a special tool needed to get access to the drain plug but a poster in Defender2.net stated it not being needed.
Front diff appears to be the same as the rear in terms of hardware. New drain and fill plugs needed. Different oil to the rear as that was the eDiff.
The final step on the 3L Petrol and Diesel engines is after going through all the steps to get a precise and correct fill level, the instructions are to remove 350ml of fluid and call it done.
Seems very strange. Only on the 3L. Not the V8 or the 2L engines.
I'd love to know the why.
Edit: Possible theory is that it is due to a slightly angled transmission on the Defender. Ie: when the Defender sits level the transmission is tilted meaning a slight overfill after the steps have been taken. Perhaps. someone like @sarek might know more.
