Prior to removing the flywheel, using the notch on the back of the cam gear and the 0I T scribing on the counter balance disk on crank pulley, I rotated the motor to TDC to mark the bolt, flange washer and the flywheel AS WELL as the single tooth on the ring grear in case of need to re fit it. See last photos.

Flywheels are married to the crank and balanced at the factory and it only goes on 1 of 12 positions without vibration issues. Removal of Benz flywheel requires a 12pt 12mm socket. Preferably new as you may be grinding off a flange bolt after rounding it. Don't ask me how I know.

Using the native Benz adapter, I traced the dowel pin bore and got that to mount properly.

The one issue I noticed is the rotation of the starter orientation on the R380 Bell Housing diferent by about 30 deg counter clockwise. Jerek notched his bell housing to accomidate this difference and Marco in CA cut and tig welded his bell housing.

I toyed with the idea of rotating my engine orientation 30 dec as other folks have done and suggested as well as sell a mount kit for. Effectiveness of the sump pickup may be compromised to a degree by rotation is my speculation. I very well may be wrong. I often am being human and all. In the images posted in order of my discovery, you will see what I am talking about. If not.....look closer or forget it.

The crank flange bolts used on the auto flywheel vs. the manual are considerable longer than the later. See image. To give visual mass to those whom haven't seen it in person and have touched it I am posting an image of the bell housing under the benz adapter plate.

Prior to fitting the adapter, I had to remove the oil pressure sending unit from the base of the oil filter housing. Older om617's will have a traditional tube feed to the gauge in the instrument cluster of the W123

I have to say again that HDPE is super dense and tough. No wonder they use it for high friction applications as well as bushings, bearing shells and they make nuts and bolts out of it. I may use it for my pilot or spiggot bushing. Properly lubed, it may last longer than my truck.

Touching on the last image, you will notice that there are no other penetrations into my adapter material. This is simply because I have yet to pull and place my R380 trans complete with bushing appropriate for the primary input shaft to trans. The thing to the thing to the thing... Motor / crank inner bore to bushing to trans outer diameter of primary input shaft to trans....for those that require granular detail.

 

in more that 70 posts I have to attest that there is more that vapour and zippy happening here. May have been a long time coming but far from ZIPPY for those who are in doubt. And what the heck are you doing in -25 deg climate? searching for alien space craft tucked deep in glacial territory you fu*ktard? No wonder you are miserible and may I say quite negative. Must be in the South Pole... lol just some comic relief there. No offence!

 

The native rover disk is 10.5 1x23 spline and I was considering getting one for the conversion and lathing down to 8.5". However, I found a clutch disk on ebay Hastings part no.CD1009 applied fitment in 87 Ford Aerostar. 8.5 1x23 for 25 + shipping. It only has 4 springs but they are heavy so we will see what happens. I also plan to fit a damper inline between clutch master and slave cyl's hoping to get the most time out of the clutch disk.

Does anyone have any input on the effectiveness of a damper?

 

You can buy the kit with every thing you need plus trans for 5,000-6,000$ from these guys. Landing Page Home


It is a plug and play install and there in the states.
He will give you your choice of a 200 0r 300 saving up for mine next year.

 

Appreciated. Although this kit may be available, 5-6K is out of the question. The purpose of this build thread is to:

1. Discuss total adaptation of the OM617 into the Discovery.
2. Aid Discovery enthusiasts through their builds inventively so one does not have to be discouraged because of nay sayers, lack of money or lack of ability through Documenting my build.
3.Inspire those with reasonable and cost effective ways to get it done.

I am doing this build because I was inspired by the efforts of others that have done this same build. My commitment to my build is solely due to the time and research I have put into it KNOWING I can do it for less than 1000. So far I have less than 800 into it.

So, I ask you this; What inspires you?

 

What inspires me?


Not trying to start a pissing contest. I was simply showing that there is a way to do this with out having to find all the parts, adaptors, and read every post on how this person did this and how he did that. Keep in mind not every on here has the space, shop , Know how, and skills that you and others have on here. I would like to think that maybe with your info and my mine if some one is thinking of getting out of rovers because of 3.9, 4.0., and 4.6 engine issue now they have two ways of getting a diesel put in and rethinking on keeping there Rover. Another is budget every one is different if had 8,000$ to spend on a rover and I were get a d1 for 500$ with a blown motor and want a diesel instead of gas everything you need is right here on these forums both ways of getting the job done.


Do I have a shop to do the work? Yes I have a shop, and 3 Disco's each on is different but my main two will become diesel's one will be the kit the other I will build as you are and your info will be and is greatly welcomed and appreciated. The difference in one of mine is I will install a Benz 300 diesel instead of the Rover engine.


Inspiration? We own Rovers you have to have some to own one or you will give up when you blow a head gasket for 3rd time.

 

Yeah the conversion kits for the 200tdi and 300tdi are available and they are a bolt in modification. I don't think anyone is opposed to you listing it as an option, to have as many options as possible is a good thing for defeating the gas V8 problems these disco's are plagued with. Hopefully this will prove to be a more cost effective approach, and possibly more reliable (200tdi/300tdi both had some problems as well. I'm nibbling at the process as well, far behind raeuspius, but we are bouncing ideas back and forth attempting to work out solutions that have stopped others that have attempted in their tracks.

 

So we are on the same page. I am not interested in pissing contest and sorry for giving you that impression. I tell you about blown head gaskets. The torque 15lb 90* 90* is I believe why they blow primarily. Other coolant circulation factors and fans going but not so much as this arbitrary torque setting. I have heard of folks leaving certain bolts out completely to resolve this. I use 55lb in RAVE sequence and forget about it. The stress on the stretch bolts along with compression force and heat cause bad things. Most of the time, I find when removing a head to do the job, two REAR bolts on either side require absolutely no force removing them. Seams passenger side rear is a heat trap. Every head job I have done with out exception. And I have not done one that did not have oil spray concentric direction from the cylinder. Too tight at first and too loose in the inevitable catastrophic and expensive end.

My efforts here are shared for folks like you that want to keep the rover! Plane and simple they are fantastic off road performers and look cool on the road. I like sitting in my square fish bowl....lol

With that, I welcome you to this build thread and I hope I can help you in any way I can so you can get it done cost effectively and timely.

 

I just received my clutch disk today. It is an absolute PERFECT fit and has .83 more friction surface that of the Benz disk.

I also since last pic post to this thread have mounted my starter with what seems to be enough clearance negating any interfere with the flywheel and bendix engagement should be smooth. I only have one bolt holding the starter in right now as I have to re drill the bottom hole before I apply voltage to turn the flywheel.

 

Be careful with plastic ford is finding out the hard way about harder abs plastics . Some of there ring and pin sets are made from it and do not hold up to the heat and stress.