I am a read the fine print person, luckily for you the DI owners manual says weights of oil from 5w-40 all the way upto 20w-60 are fine to use.
Valvoline says you must use the manufactures recommended viscosity, you must buy the required amount of oil each time as well as a oil filter, you must not go over 4,000 miles, you must keep all receipts for oil and filter as well as mileage at time of oil change.
And change the air filter per recommendations and keep receipts for that too.
Only oil wetted parts are covered and it must be a complete failure, no "unusual noises" will be covered, no modifications of any kind to the driveline, engine or transmission, no super chargers or turbos added and the correct tire size and pressure must be used.
And no "performance" upgrades.
Basically it must remain stock.
Any failure because of overheating is also not covered and you must also maintain the cooling system per manufacture recommendations.
Thats the nuts and bolts of their warranty.

So if you are running a larger tire, void.
A "cone" style air filter, void.
Go 4,500 miles because you were on vacation, void.
You can change your oil early, but not late.
Also if your car came with full syn from the factory you must also use full syn or the warranty is void.

Castrol also has/had this type of warranty but you had to get the oil changed at one of their quick lubes each and everytime.
At least with Valvoline you can do it yourself.

I am not a fan of these warranties, I think it is all a marketing ploy to get you to buy their products, how many engines are they going to buy before they are not making money?
They have a team of lawyers who have made pretty well damn sure they will not be paying for any repairs.

I am NOT trying to be a naysayer Danny, whatever works for you man go for it!!!

 

Pick up a motor and bring it down here. I might do a little more supervising than actually working but I'll make sure it goes back together

 

And no review of premium snake oil induction cleaning would be complete with out a drawing. See attached. Forgot to mention that the crankcase breather system will be trying to coat the inside of the entire plenum surface with what ever fumes make it past the oil separator. So maybe in addition to cheap gas, cheap oil run at hot temperatures will increase what goop is in the plenum and drools down onto the valves.

 

Buzz, I am glad you brought this up. I recall seeing something about deleting this recirculating goop system for an "old school" type breather.
Anyone know anything about that?

Spike, thanks for the fine print review. I know I will never keep up with all that. But the stuff does work well. As does a lot of other premium oils like Castrol GT and Rotella.

The real key is using premium fuel and a good quality oil together and changing the oil on a regular basis. Luckily for me, my Rover does not see extensive miles as long as I can keep it away from my son wanting to use it every time he destroys whatever he has been driving lately. He goes thru cars like I used to go thru girlfriends.

 

Emissions might check for that, if you live where that is an enforced issue. For the rest of us, we have to breathe also, so having the engine burn it is probably the lesser of two evils. There's 7 billion of us now, all that body heat makes more global warming....

 

if it didnt have cats id say you could pipe it into the exhaust with a crankcase evac setup - Milodon 85700 - Milodon Vac-U-Pan Systems - Overview - SummitRacing.com

sadly with the cats i think youd just end up with lots of plugging and check engine lights

 

Maybe we could do something like an eternal torch and just let it burn off and kill mosquitoes at the same time.