Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

So what did you do to your Disco today?

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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 01:11 AM
  #2561  
jimvw57's Avatar
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From: Central Minnesota
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Got to see my truck today for a little while, and I was allowed to pay for some gas for it... Someday I am going to kidnap it back again!!
 
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 07:07 AM
  #2562  
fishEH's Avatar
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From: IL
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Originally Posted by CUpgt
Installed my new spring wedges thanks to Brett. They straightened out my springs a good bit. Also put the rebuild rear third back in and installed my new custom steering rods. Drag link is 1.5x.25 DOM and track bar is 1.25x.120 DOM. Went with a smaller track bar to fit better with a future 3 link.


Where's your steering damper!?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 09:50 AM
  #2563  
TOM R's Avatar
Baja
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: south n.j. and ne va.
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Finally bought the tap to chase the knock sensor hole in block and install the replacement

Fyi that uses a m12 x 1.25 tap pep boys $5 with a drill bit, on the shelf Kawasaki brand titanium coated
 
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 10:24 AM
  #2564  
CUpgt's Avatar
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From: Upstate South Carolina
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Originally Posted by fishEH
Where's your steering damper!?
I have a tube clamp with shock tabs welded on it that I'll put back on it once I get an alignment but I can't even tell it's not there except a little bit of bump steer and a lightning fast return to center. I was pretty impressed with the way the truck drives considering the rear axle was pushed back and all the steering was replaced. Ran 70 with a straight steering wheel and no pulling.
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Now it's time for my Saginaw P-series power steering pump... It never ends
 
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 06:36 PM
  #2565  
97discovery's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2014
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Removed the driveshaft, rotoflex, and 3-bolt Flange (used the socket pull method to pull the pin).

I bought the conversion kit from Atlantic British and all was going well until I attempted to install the new flange (there was not enough thread on the pinion bolt to allow me to get the nut started; using the nut to push the shield onto the flange seemed like a bad idea since it would just push the pinion seal in further as well). Attached is the image that came with the instructions:

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I've seen the shield press onto the flange in other images.

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Any tips to press the mud-shield onto the new flange without dinging it up?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 08:25 PM
  #2566  
TOM R's Avatar
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From: south n.j. and ne va.
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Piece of exhaust pipe and hammer tap it on
 
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 06:04 PM
  #2567  
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From: Groton, Ct
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Yesterday I flushed my coolant system then I chased an exhaust leak and discovered I didnt have an olive between the y-pipe and the silencer. Then I found that the bolts from the manifold to the cats were not even hand tight. So fixed all that then the ps pump decided to kill itself. Then to calm down from that I greased my driveshafts.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 08:12 PM
  #2568  
CUpgt's Avatar
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From: Upstate South Carolina
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Originally Posted by tentoesjoe
Yesterday I flushed my coolant system then I chased an exhaust leak and discovered I didnt have an olive between the y-pipe and the silencer. Then I found that the bolts from the manifold to the cats were not even hand tight. So fixed all that then the ps pump decided to kill itself. Then to calm down from that I greased my driveshafts.
Your forgetting the most important item when working on Rovers....lots of cold beer! I have a PS pump that feels pretty good. Ill shoot you a PM.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 08:26 PM
  #2569  
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From: Groton, Ct
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Well I thought the cold beer was obvious. If the ps pump i get doesn't work i will give you a shout. Thanks for the offer.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 06:47 PM
  #2570  
CUpgt's Avatar
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From: Upstate South Carolina
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Ditched the cats and replaced with straight pipes. Truck sounds like *** with the flowmaster on it. Having a MagnaFlow put on Thursday and hoping it takes the hollow tinny sound out of it. No codes yet though.
 
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