Probably, but if you're just worries about getting home then brake lights should be sufficient?

 

Replaced my transfer case oil again with HD oil just to be sure it was good. Lubed the linkage as best I could from underneath.
Set up my new ultragauge. Ordered a new 180 thermostat. Received my ebay owners manual in the mail.

By the way I asked this on my other thread but no answer. Does any one else's center console area heat way up during wheeling? Mine was like a heater in the truck. 130+ degrees

 

Yes quite hot.

 

So going off the 7pin connector I was able to get both turn signals and running lights. It's the brake lights that I needed the box for apparently. Since we had a 2+ hour drive home from the father-in-laws we opted for borrowing his van he normally pulls the trailer with. I could have probably tapped into the brake lights at the connector to the tail lights instead of the tow connector but at the time the van seemed the easier option. I was very wrong about that.

We heard a high pitched whine and a thud about 20mi from home only to find that the serpentine belt was now gone. So I get to run to check things out tomorrow and run to the parts store to see if I can fix it in time to pickup furniture still.

 

Took the truck out for about a 100 mile trip today. Longest I've ever driven it at one time. Took it to Mt Charleston area. Took some random back road that led me to a trail into the Springs Mountains. Temps in the 60's. Unreal since it was 110 yesterday. What a difference altitude makes. Two things I'm not used to wheeling with; rain and vegetation.

 

I was starting to notice that the 3m hood blackout sticker was starting to get really crappy so i decided to remove it and replaced it with some bedliner that i had left over from doing the floors. It came out a lot better than i thought it might, I'm very very happy with it. I didn't want to follow the original lines cause for one it still left some paint exposed that had some deep scratches in it, and for two it proved harder than i thought it'd be to tape off. i also removed the faded LAND ROVER sticker, i plan to get a newer version of it with the raised ABS letters

 

So in my attempts to deal with the overheating issue on the '94, I removed the thermostat. I thought for sure that would fix the problem, but nope. It got just as hot, with the needle going past the upper white mark and into the orange. After I removed the t-stat, I removed the plastic plug on the radiator and added coolant there, then squeezed the upper radiator hose to burp any air up there. I then topped off the coolant reservoir tank, and went on a test drive. It was a combination of surface streets and higher mph streets, but after several miles, it creeped up into the danger zone.

I pulled into the driveway, looked for any leaks underneath, and didn't see any. I slowly loosened the reservoir cap, and there was a considerable amount of pressure in there. It let off some steam or vapor, as well as coolant. Seemed like it bubbled off about half of the coolant that was in the reservoir tank by the time it was done venting.

So since I removed the t-stat already, now I'm thinking of replacing the reservoir cap. This one is gray, has a two-plug fitting on the top with the words Land Rover on it, and what looks like a long plunger of some type underneath the cap. Is this the correct reservoir cap for this '94? Should I even bother with replacing it? Oh, and the reservoir tank is the opaque one, not the black one that I've read has to be replaced.

The previous owner supposedly replaced the radiator, water pump, t-stat, and upper hose, and from what I can tell, I have no reason to doubt him. I thought for sure removing the t-stat would've cured the overheating, but apparently I have no idea how an automobile cooling system works. I checked the radiator fan, and it offers resistance like it's moving thru heavy syrup or peanut butter with the engine off. I also checked the two smaller fans in front of the radiator, and with the key ON, and the AC button pushed, these two fans come on, and they are pulling air thru the grill, according to the paper test.

I'd hate to think it's something serious like the radiator, or even worse, the head gaskets. That's why I'm taking the "process of elimination" approach, starting with the t-stat. Next would be the reservoir cap, then get the radiator checked, water pump, and if it still overheats, it's gotta be something VERY serious. If it's the head gaskets, that'll take some serious thinking about fixing, or just part it out. Hopefully it's not that...

 

if the pressure bottle cap was bad, it would be leaking or "hissing." it is ALWAYS going to let off pressure after driving bc the cooling system is pressurized...

how are you overheating? idling in traffic? driving at 60mph? both? the way the clutch fan "feels" is not an accurate test. in the morning, with the engine ice cold, when you start the truck you should HEAR the clutch fan and it should sound like a 747. after a minute or so of driving the fluid settles and the sound goes away. if this isnt the case, replace the clutch.

 

Awesome looking rig! Your sig says leak free, are you serious? I used to do alot of cycling in the N GA and Carolina mountains. Unreal how the temps change so fast at altitude.

 

mine is getting there... gonna change the oil cooler lines at the next oil change and i think thats it.