Got the PS pump, Water Pump, Tensioner pulley, and belt swapped out and the truck is driving as should be expected now.

Planning on installing an aftermarket touch screen radio, new speakers, and amp/subwoofer tonight and through this weekend. Will also be adding noise deadening material to the doors and tailgate while swapping speakers.

 

Cleaned up the contacts on the inside of my turn signal stalk (which is only a couple of years old so this really should not have happened).

It was being stubborn. Headlights would turn on but dash and tail lights would not. Once some heat got into the car and a million or so switches on/off I could get it to work.

So I disassembled the side of the base with the contacts. Very lightly sanded all the internal contacts. Lubricated lightly with dielectric grease, and reassembled.

So far so good but we'll see if it is a long term fix or not. I'm optimistic.

 

Replaced 1st green relay closest to door in passenger kick panel on my D1 and now the front windshield wipers work on the intermittent setting. Wipers would work but it would never park in the correct spot now with the relay replaced it now stops and works as designed by LR.

 

 

Today, I ripped out the garbage aftermarket sound system that the P.O. had installed and replaced it with a headless bluetooth amplifier (Kenwood KAC-M1824BT) that is designed for marine-use and relatively "waterproof" as well as "waterproof" speakers (Kicker KM44 for the doors and KM65 LED for the rear pillars). Ran all new wiring and found out mid-install that the new amp runs off of the stock power wires so I was able to rip out the old, nasty 4AWG power wires used to power the previous amp for the subs that were taken out before I bought the truck. No more unsightly wire in my engine bay and passenger footwell. Installed the amp in the glovebox, but have yet to find a spot for the wired remote.

It's not the most powerful system but it's loud enough and is compact. This is part of my master plan to remove as many electrical components and wires as possible to make my truck simple to diagnose and easier to fix. The biggest downside is I now have to figure out what to do with the hole in my dashboard (maybe a hard-mounted CB radio).

I'm willing to take pictures now that it's done to help anyone else with this process for future. The most helpful thing I figured out is that the stock radio 12V power wire is purple and the accessory turn on power is red.

 

I love the "headless" Bluetooth option. Not that it matter much in this forum, but were I to have a classic car of some sort, this is exactly what I'd do. Keep the classic stock look but have modern sound. Cellular data is so cheap now. Who listens to the radio anymore? And there's an app for that anyway.

 

I agree completely. Since writing that post, I'm thinking maybe I'll custom cut a sheet of aluminum to to house the small wired remote and the ScanGuage I am planning to buy and mount it in that opening.

 

Wireless Bluetooth head unit, but you're going with a ScanGuage??? Hmmmm, ok. Not the most elegant solution nor the most capable. A $5 app and $13 dongle will get you a lot further than that ScanGuage.

 

Agreed. I'd rather use that space for a mapping service/app/device.

 

Do you have an app suggestion? I am new to the Rover club. I use Carly for my BMW, but that app/dongle combo is designed only to work with BMW's.