Resealed my ram housing and upper intake plenum. Manual calls for Loctite 577, so that's what I used (first time experiment). Suspected vacuum leak at ram housing to intake manifold surface.

I also used Loctite 7471 activator since aluminum is an inactive metal and the surfaces are very thin. I bought the big tube of 577 and the activator from McMaster-Carr online. Should have bought the smaller tube. Now I have enough for at least 50 jobs. If anyone needs some, let me know.

I previously used Loctite 567 on the upper plenum, and am very happy with that result. I could hear it crack as the bolts were loosened. 567 is listed as low strength, 577 is medium strength. Both are anaerobic sealants. Before, I used High Tack on the ram housing sealing surface, and it actually sealed well, but caused drip marks and was hard to apply uniformly. The Loctite products produce a very clean finished look, since the excess is easily wiped away after bolting. Much cleaner looking than silicon sealants.

 

Today, I changed out the radiator and heater hoses along with putting in a 180ºF thermostat.

I also begun the process of changing the DEXCOOL out the PO put in for the green stuff.

After draining as much of the DEX out I could and the old hoses removed along with the radiator plug out, I stuck a garden hose in the expansion tank and flushed it out. Then I put the hose in the top radiator hose opening
and watched till the water at the bottom hose opening ran clear.

Next, I pulled the T-Stat housing off and removed the T-Stat and put the hose in there for about five minutes.

Next, I had removed the heater hoses from the engine side and put the hose one on side with the heater turned to “hot”. I ran the hose till the orange turned clear then reverse the sides.
I let the water flush the heater core for about five minutes. Next I stuck the hose back in the T-Stat opening and let it run for about five more minutes.

Next, I replaced all the hoses and T-Stat and filled the expansion tank with distilled water and, with the radiator fill plug still off, started her up and topped it off as the water in the tank dropped, then replaced the radiator plug and expansion tank cap.

I had the heater on and let it idle, reving it every now and then and it sat at about 175ºF on the UltraGauge for a few minutes. I turned the A/C on to get some heat in it and the T-Stat must have opened as the water in the expansion tank was slightly orange at this point, I’d say about 10% Dex was still in the water. It was showing 185º - 190º

Tomorrow, I will drain as much of the water as I can out of the radiator and then “rinse, lather, repeat” the process I figure at least five maybe six times to be sure all the DEX is flushed out.

 

Today, I finished flushing the DEXCOOL out and put the GREEN 50/50 mix in.
Yesterday, I changed the radiator hoses and T-Stat out. I flushed the system out once.
Today, I flushed the system out six heat cycles and felt this was good enough.

Next, I changed the front and rear brake pads. they were all at “end of life” for sure and U G L Y ! ! !
One rear pad was down to metal. The rear pads are LOCKHEED which leads me to think they are the originals as the calipers are LOCKHEED
or Dealer replacements. No matter, all the life was used up.

Tomorrow, I may flush the brake fluid, again, this time with CASTROL brake fluid.
CHEERS!

 

excellent work

 

Today (and yesterday), I replaced the stock brake lines with TerraFirma +50MM Stainless Steel Braided Hoses.
I have a 2" lift on this rig.
The front hoses went on fairly easily but the passenger rear was a real PITA!!! The retaining nut fought me every THREAD!
The driver's side rear came off as easy as one would expect.
I flushed the brake fluid, replacing the Prestone DOT4 I'd put in a couple weeks ago doing a brake flush, with
Castrol DOT4.
The pedal feels real solid... finally.
Hope this cures my spongy pedal once and for all.

 

Have you replaced the master? I think that will solve my problem along with getting the front rotors cut.

 

Had to replace the Alternator, replaced the serpentine belt at the same time, also a new battery which wasn't the problem.

 

denverdisco1,
Yes, I have replaced the m/c - I got this Disco in February and the M/C stated leaking about two weeks later. Since then,
I've been trying to complete Disco Mike's List of "Major service for a high miler".
Along with this recent brake line change, I've now flushed the brake system twice. Changing the pads, which being completely worn, along with the old brake hoses being changed, the pedal does really feel much better.

I think the only thing left on the High Milage List for me to do now is grease the driveshaft u-joints.

 

When I bought this ’97 Disco back in Feb, I asked the seller if the cruise control worked.
His answer was YES. Keep in mind, this guy is a mechanic at a Rover shop in San Antonio.

Well, there was no vacuum pump. I got one off eBay.
There was no actuator link. A friend gave me one.
The vacuum hose was disconnected from the brake pedal switch. I hooked that back up and…
Today, I do have cruise control!

Cheers and Beers!

 

Took the squirrel cage out because of vibration on highest speed - found some Leafs and a small rock - how did that get in there ?

Changed swivels over to one-shot grease after using gear oil last service - gear oil leaked
Topped off transfer case and diffs
Lubed drive-shaft