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I plan to replace the long transmission oil cooler line as the original is finally starting to leak at the rubber hose to aluminum connection and the leaking oil sender - will first degrease under the engine with carb cleaner spray and clean the engine bay with foaming degreaser
I plan to replace the long transmission oil cooler line as the original is finally starting to leak at the rubber hose to aluminum connection and the leaking oil sender - will first degrease under the engine with carb cleaner spray and clean the engine bay with foaming degreaser
If you are replacing the line that connects to the top of the transmission, you will probably need to drop the Y-pipe. Be ready to deal with the studs from the exhaust manifold which often are troublesome.
Well after two years, I finally got back to the the Disco 1. The rear sunroof leaks, because it was stock partially open. The motor tried to move, so I started there, plenty of rust brushes ok. Worked but the issue didn’t go away also you could clearly see that the left wasn’t moving(trying) like the right.
So I went down the rabbit hole, I had the liner out for repair anyway. The thing was caked with California desert dirt. The lines are clogged, but the issue is the worm cable.
After lots of cleaning, some pieces came out then I had to figure out how to take it apart, my first time ever. So I took apart the broken one first, then took my time on the other one since is in great shape. I needed to see what the broken part looks like.
So now I have to figure out how to make one and do something about the busted squares.
After the sunroof, abs delete, headliner. So the next few weeks should be Disco all the time. Filthy motor Now that looks awful Need to make some of this, or similar Detailing, after cleaning it glides before didn’t even move. That little part,at the end is the key to all of this. Before the polish
That little white slider is going to be a bitch to locate. You might want to take some measurements of a complete piece and find something like a window slider that will work.
That little white slider is going to be a bitch to locate. You might want to take some measurements of a complete piece and find something like a window slider that will work.
Thanks, I was thinking of something just like that. If not I’ll make some out of delrin, I know it has a bit of flex built into the design. But I’m guessing it won’t be necessary in the unobtanium part.
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Swapped out the 3.54 diffs for ASHCROFT 3.75’s this week.
I’m running 267/70 16’s and wanted to get the shift points back to factory.
Last year on our trip to Colorado, Monarch Pass brought the Disco to her knees.
We pulled the axels out and left the calipers and rotors on. On the front, I removed the swivel housing bolts that bolt it to the axel housing and pulled them out, resting them on jack stands. The rear was simply a matter of removing the five flange bolts and pulling the axels out about a 12" or so.
I’ve done a couple days driving around the hill country here in Austin, TX and
I have to say I’m very happy with there results.
She seems to kick down now when I put my foot in it and climbed the hills without losing MPH.
Have to give a shoutout to Eric and Lucky8. I got the bearing/seal kit as well as the Ashcroft shim kit from them.
All in all not too bad a job to do.
Painted up - happy with the pattern rear diff was MUCH easier to remove than the front.
To the left of the disco. Great job, I did a lot of measuring and looking stuff up. For the camping setup in the back. Trick is that I want to still have 2/3 of the rear seating area.
I’m using tents and awning for camping. The inside for storage, stove, fridge and small sink.
