What did you do with your DII today?
Mudding
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 215
Likes: 21
From: Kauai, Hawaii
Removed sump to check flexplate for cracks- all good 👍🏼 Then cleaned everything up. New gasket. Trying out T5 and splurged for K&N filter. Hyper-lube (really impressed so far, purring at idle and super quiet).
Now onto yet another power steering pump. Thirds the charm!
Now onto yet another power steering pump. Thirds the charm!
TReK
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 3,387
Likes: 488
Oiled filters are ok, over oiling them is the problem.
After cleaning, a light spray of filter oil, just enough for dirt to stick to.
It's when there's oil dripping off the filter, way more than the element can absorb, is when oil is sucked into the air intake tube and builds up on the mass air meter, which is what kills it.
Majority of the time, k&n and that style filter's only real benefit is that they're reusable. There hp and mpg claims are unoticeable.
After cleaning, a light spray of filter oil, just enough for dirt to stick to.
It's when there's oil dripping off the filter, way more than the element can absorb, is when oil is sucked into the air intake tube and builds up on the mass air meter, which is what kills it.
Majority of the time, k&n and that style filter's only real benefit is that they're reusable. There hp and mpg claims are unoticeable.
I'm running a blue cloth looking Britpart Performance air filter in my 99 D2. It is like the AEM/AFE Dry Air Filters that just require you to rinse them off with water. No oil is required. Clean, dry & re-use. I ran K&N Air Filters for years in my D1/P38 and I never had any MAF issues (GEMS MAF's are $$$$). It's all about how much you oil them, and you let it soak in properly. If you just clean it, oil it, and install it = you're asking for trouble.
On FB several of the LR Groups I'm in #1 complaint is the 3 Amigo's. I honestly don't see why so many people get their pants in a bunch over it. The brakes still work, and it will stop. Yes the ABS/TC/HDC features are INOP, but all it takes is a little diagnostics with the proper scantool, then you'll normally see shuttle valve switch faults (Option B is #1 on my list of D2's I buy if it has the 3 Musketeers). The internal connection is a known weak spot on H1 Hummers & our D2's with the WABCO ABS Unit.
So after the Option B mod diagnosing the rest of the system is easy. The key is to have a proper scantool that reads LR ABS fault codes. Now back in the day when D2's were new yes NO ONE, but LR could fix it as they were the only ones that could read the faults or had the parts.
On FB several of the LR Groups I'm in #1 complaint is the 3 Amigo's. I honestly don't see why so many people get their pants in a bunch over it. The brakes still work, and it will stop. Yes the ABS/TC/HDC features are INOP, but all it takes is a little diagnostics with the proper scantool, then you'll normally see shuttle valve switch faults (Option B is #1 on my list of D2's I buy if it has the 3 Musketeers). The internal connection is a known weak spot on H1 Hummers & our D2's with the WABCO ABS Unit.
So after the Option B mod diagnosing the rest of the system is easy. The key is to have a proper scantool that reads LR ABS fault codes. Now back in the day when D2's were new yes NO ONE, but LR could fix it as they were the only ones that could read the faults or had the parts.
