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  #9011  
Old 12-05-2022, 01:36 PM
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Nonetheless the drive shafts should be greased with every oil change. 3 years is a long time, I hope he did grease it frequently since then.
 
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DiscoID (12-06-2022)
  #9012  
Old 12-05-2022, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Discorama
Nonetheless the drive shafts should be greased with every oil change. 3 years is a long time, I hope he did grease it frequently since then.
Yup - oil isn't technically due for another 2k miles, but I'll do it anyway so I can get under there, get used to it, do the driveshaft greasing, and whatever else I notice might need some love.
 
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  #9013  
Old 12-05-2022, 04:50 PM
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I cut the old exhaust out that one nut was a real bitch.see pics.










 
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DiscoID (12-06-2022)
  #9014  
Old 12-05-2022, 06:27 PM
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Good day to all, just joined today and need a little help.

I have a 2004 discovery 2, I have had it about a year and the rear hatch has never worked well but with constant cleaning and lubrication of the latch assembly, linkage and hinges it functions, until today.

The lock and unlock actuator seems to be functioning properly both manually and electronically, I pulled the door panel off and disconnected the rod to the latch release lever, when I try to release the latch by moving the release lever nothing happens. I pulled the weatherstripping out of the way and moved the child lock to lock and unlock so I do not think that is the problem. I held the release lever in the unlatch position and used a 2-foot pry bar between the door and the doorframe to apply a little pressure to help open the door and again no movement, So I know the door is not locked- the child lock is in the unlock position- release lever seems to have full range of motion and the door is still stuck closed.

Is there any other way to manually force the latch to release?
I do not care if the latch is destroyed, I can replace it if I get the door open.
Thank you
 
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DiscoID (12-06-2022)
  #9015  
Old 12-06-2022, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by machinest
Good day to all, just joined today and need a little help.

I have a 2004 discovery 2, I have had it about a year and the rear hatch has never worked well but with constant cleaning and lubrication of the latch assembly, linkage and hinges it functions, until today.

The lock and unlock actuator seems to be functioning properly both manually and electronically, I pulled the door panel off and disconnected the rod to the latch release lever, when I try to release the latch by moving the release lever nothing happens. I pulled the weatherstripping out of the way and moved the child lock to lock and unlock so I do not think that is the problem. I held the release lever in the unlatch position and used a 2-foot pry bar between the door and the doorframe to apply a little pressure to help open the door and again no movement, So I know the door is not locked- the child lock is in the unlock position- release lever seems to have full range of motion and the door is still stuck closed.

Is there any other way to manually force the latch to release?
I do not care if the latch is destroyed, I can replace it if I get the door open.
Thank you
Sounds similar to the issue I've been experiencing, but I've come to find that the child latch lever is the culprit for me (I think). New latch assembly p/n FQR100570.

In the attached, if you press down on the part that the tip of my pen is touching that should unlock it. Without going to my D2 and feeling around, I don't know if any sheetmetal or whatnot may prevent you from reaching it. This is all from just observing the new part I have on hand. Can any of the more knowledgable forumites confirm?



 
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DiscoID (12-06-2022)
  #9016  
Old 12-06-2022, 11:15 AM
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Reattached the antenna button on the right rear glass. Found it behind the lower panel it when I did the tear out for the 5 seat conversion.
Made sure the glass was really heated up before attempting to resolder.

Also replaced a busted up audio control pod on the steering column. T-30 is what you need to pull the airbag.

Haven't finished the seat conversion. Struggling to find a really good solution for the left side lower panel. My truck has rear A/C, and the 5 seat lower panel that is supposed to go in is from a non-AC truck. Gonna check with an ambitious local auto interior guy to see if he can fab something up.
 
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DiscoID (12-06-2022)
  #9017  
Old 12-06-2022, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Gripen
Sounds similar to the issue I've been experiencing, but I've come to find that the child latch lever is the culprit for me (I think). New latch assembly p/n FQR100570.

In the attached, if you press down on the part that the tip of my pen is touching that should unlock it. Without going to my D2 and feeling around, I don't know if any sheetmetal or whatnot may prevent you from reaching it. This is all from just observing the new part I have on hand. Can any of the more knowledgable forumites confirm?


I can get my finger on that tab, pushing down (it does not move) and does nothing, you can push it upwards and that does not seem to do anything either. Thank you for the pictures, Guess I am going to have to buy a new latch assembly and figure out how it functions to find out how to force it to unlatch. I genuinely appreciate your response.
 
  #9018  
Old 12-06-2022, 04:59 PM
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Default How to open a broken tailgate latch

Originally Posted by machinest
I can get my finger on that tab, pushing down (it does not move) and does nothing, you can push it upwards and that does not seem to do anything either. Thank you for the pictures, Guess I am going to have to buy a new latch assembly and figure out how it functions to find out how to force it to unlatch. I genuinely appreciate your response.

Pin came out of the keeper, preventing full movment

Made a tool that would fit inside door to manipulate the latch

Insert between plastic housing and release lever

Pull down and to release latch
 
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wjsj69 (12-07-2022)
  #9019  
Old 12-07-2022, 08:14 AM
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Finally got some URE pictures uploaded from a few weeks ago! Long post.

This is my buddies D2. He blew his rear end up about 10 minutes after taking this picture (for the second time). This is the rear end he had blown the spider gears out of previously and we'd welded what was left back into the carrier. We thrashed a couple hours to get a spare I'd brought back in and went back out wheeling that day. We had thrown that bumper together the night before we left. Like mine, still needs some work, but totally functional.
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This is the first real trail damage I've gotten on this disco. Carelessness on my part, but that's all right. That's what this disco is for. Need to get sliders built.
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Our two together on the second to last trail we hit. This is where we took most of the pictures.
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This was a really cool little spot. I had also just installed lockers in mine a couple days before we left. Actually wired them the first morning before the trail rides started.
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Unfortunately even with lockers, this obstacle was not for me with the current setup.
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Taking the bypass.
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This was drive home day, so my buddy sat this trail out so he didn't risk breaking again. I had trailered, so I was letting it hang out. I appreciate them taking a bunch of pictures.
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Lots of good shots here, but I really like this one in particular.
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As we were leaving the outpost to head home. My wife posing for a picture with the Disco.
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My view around 6:00pm the night before we left, before we started the bumper. He lives an hour and a half from the shop here. It was a late thrash for us, but totally worth it.
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Also have a couple action videos (no audio).

https://imgur.com/wvcbipB.mp4

https://imgur.com/UziUZ2l.mp4






And this disco is parked right now, but here's a little [off topic] Tahoe/Jeep action when we went out with my dad this weekend (my Tahoe, his Jeep). We're in the process of slowly un-bro-ing his jeep. Already removed the LED headlights and the angry grill, factory fender flares are on the way, and we're moving him from the 31s on 10" wide fake beadlocks to some 33s on 16*8s. Tahoe is on 33s and will be moving up to 35s when I SAS it. Most of the parts are gathered, just have to have the time and unfortunately I no longer have access to that shop space.

Wife, Baby, Dad, both rigs. Having lunch. Starting the little out right.
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I popped a CV on this hill and he had to pull me the rest of the way out. Finished the day out in 2wd. If it hadn't been raining I could've done the whole trail in 2wd. CV didn't owe me anything, been making noise for around 30k miles. The Tahoe gets the short end of the stick a lot...
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Just one video here.
https://imgur.com/5nuiW2G.mp4
 

Last edited by Alex_M; 12-07-2022 at 08:36 AM.
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  #9020  
Old 12-07-2022, 08:54 AM
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Been a rough go for the discos the last 2 weeks....Green one the week of Thanksgiving the alternator bracket failed and the tensioner pulley ripped out, grabbed a spare bracket and replaced in the mall parking lot. A week later some gnarly noise popped after driving for 30+minutes, feared flex plate (unsure why that was my first reaction but it was...), confirmed centerball was on it's way out on the TW front shaft. Totally self inflicted as I'm bad for not greasing them often enough and the new aftermarket cats aren't shielded as well as the stock cats which helped accelerate this failure. So we're rocking 2WD until I can get the shaft rebuilt..

I went to bypass my throttle body heater on the white one as it's leaking again and before I got to it noticed coolant on the water pump...less than 2 years and 20k miles on that water pump. Glad I caught it before it truly failed as temps have been fine. Flowkooler pump ordered and who knows when it will show up...

On a positive note picked up a set of custom drilled Method 105 beadlocks for the classic last weekend. Very excited to get them mounted and installed!
 
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