Today I put the factory D2S lamps back in. Well, pretty sure factory since they have a 2006 date code. I had two new Hella lamps in there and just 2 week ago they were at a year old but one failed. It would stay on for a while then go off. Sometimes it would stay on for long periods. Figured it was a ballast. Nope, swapped the lamps around and the problem jumped to the other side. Have to say I am pretty disappointed given that the factory Phillips have lasted so long and the Hella did not. But I do like the color and output of the Hellas, so I will probably order another set and hope this one failure was a fluke.

 

Yesterday I swapped out the front driver side sway bar link. Normally I wouldn't mention that here, but I was pleasantly surprised by the 'other issue' that this fixed.

Let me explain...

• Have had some knocking in front driver side suspension area for a while now. Couple months?
• Put new Lower Control Arms on about a month ago, to fix the common 'thunk' when Braking. All good.
• Decided to wait until after last weekend to fix the remaining 'knocking' (went Off-Road last weekend).
• Diagnosed my knocking as a loose Sway Bar Link. Pleased - This is the cheapest, easiest suspension-related component to replace.
• Swapped out yesterday.
• Test drive - All good.

'Other Issue' -

• For about a month now, the vehicle seems to be 'skipping, hopping, jumping' at low speeds, especially around corners.
• When I first noticed it, the roads were icy - Figured I was just skidding a bit on the ice.
• Alignment is correct - Had this done about a month ago.
• No wobbles at speed, or when braking
• Roads are no longer icy, temperatures are warming up, and the issues seemed to be getting worse.
• Therefore started to think about root cause.
• Half Shaft? Bearings? Drive Shaft? Transmission? (that escalated quickly...)

....FIXED - I noticed on the test drive after fitting the new Sway Bar Link that this 'other issue' has completely disappeared. I have swapped out about 8 Sway Bar Links on either this LR3 or my full sized Range Rover, and NEVER did the bad Link cause this type of hopping/skipping issue. I therefore didn't know it was even a potential symptom of a bad Link.

Figured I would share, in case others have the same issue.

 

Well I got the engine in and everything put back together, and it would not fire up! Unfortunately after watching the Ford guru videos on YouTube for getting the timing right the Ford engine doesn’t require a timed flywheel. Oh brother! I just slapped that flywheel on in who knows what orientation to the timing marks. Next step, unbolt the engine mounts, converter bolts, transmission bolts, various wire looms, unhinge my sanity a little more, and pull the engine forward enough to unbolt the flywheel and orient it correctly to TDC #1 cylinder. I researched an older post on here to get that info. I’ll post back when I get it done. Live and learn for sure.

 

Left front in, now to the right.



Time to re strut the rover, so the dogs can ride in comfort.

 

Bummer.
The Ford vehicles use a timing pickup (CPS) that picks up the timing signal from the harmonic balancer so it's a slam dunk to get it oriented correctly as it's keyed to the crankshaft. The LR3 uses the ring with the windows that is attached to the flywheel for its timing signal. Unfortunately, you have to check and orient the flywheel to the correct position to get the engine to fire correctly. You'll notice that there is one window that is larger than the others. Just info for others that may read this in the future... the timing CPS is installed in the transmission bellhousing, driver side (LHD vehicles) at about 10 o'clock.

 

Great info 5280LR3! Thanks.
When I was checking all the connections when it first wouldn’t start, I noticed The crank sensor on the bell housing and said Oh Hell! I just got the flywheel off and reoriented correctly yesterday. I had it about 160 deg off, give or take. Now I have to restab the engine to the tranny and mount everything else back together. I’m hoping by next weekend I’ll give it a go again. I’ve been working on a HG job on a D2 I just picked up, I had to walk away from the LR3 for awhile😬

 

I got the flex plate installed correctly and most everything buttoned up. I left the cam sensor plug off and cranked it for a few cycles to build oil pressure. I plugged it back in and EUREKA!!! It started right up and sounds awesome, due to the open headers. I’ll hook those up tomorrow and drive it around to see how it drives. I’ve never driven it since I bought it with the broken timing chain.

 

Congrats hope the test drive goes perfect

 

Successful test drive after timing chains replaced! I bought it for $1,800, but well worth it. Next time I replace the timing chains in a 4.0 it should only take 1 month, Ha! . Now on to the headliner. Thanks for the well wishers.

 

Congrats man