Replaced all the rear control arms and all four struts. Destroyed two new bolts from the Atlantic British hardware kit. Would not recommend they're hardware kits.

 

Agreed on the kits, inferior quality. Really need the OE Land Rover hardware.

 

When I did my rebuild I ordered from LR Direct and got all new OEM hardware when possible with only a few nuts or bolts and such being from Britpart - which often ends up being OEM anyway. That is really disappointing to hear about AB!

 

OK, so I'm stoopid.
I've been trying to find the setting to keep my seat from doing the lazy entry thing and move back annd forth after removing the key and then putting it back because it will be just my luck the seat will grind to a halt in the wrong spot, which happened to the wifely ones LR3 and that was fun getting that working again.
Theres a **** on the steering column marked "auto" and "." Turned it to ".".
Its the little things that get you.

 

I kicked it and yelled loud words of profanity at it. My "MadMax Mobile" is a 2007 LR3 HSE which I have virtually rebuilt by pouring nearly $14K Cad into in repairs alone since I bought it used back in 2015. It was running great (and still is) however it seems to have a life of it's own thinking up what issue it can come up with next. This time it is rather bizarre:

1. - Passenger side door does not lock, no latch 9/10 times.I found out as it was parked on our street with the alarm going off at 3am. I came out to find the door wide open nothing missing as it obviously scared the beejeezus out of the tweaker who tried to get in.
2. - Then today, the drivers side window decided to crap out. Nada, just dead. I am wondering if it could be a fuse?. The reason for my wonder (hope) is that it just stopped abruptly and was working full tilt yesterday.
3. I tested all other windows which are working fine BUT!, My sunroof now also is not working It was functioning fine yesterday morning

I love the ol' gal but this is starting to wear me thin

 

Lock - Replace the door lock/latch actuator. Get genuine otherwise you’re just going to have to do it again later. It’s a DIY job but slightly fiddly. There are instructions on how to do it. Test all the doors. The worst thing that can happen is that the actuator breaks completely and you’ll have to tear the door card apart to get the door open and actuator replaced.

Window - test for continuity at door. Could also be cabling or fuse or grounding issue. Or motor of course.

dunno about the sunroof. I’m fortunate enough to not have one.

 

Calibrate the sunroof, hold the close button down for at least 20 seconds and KEEP holding it while it goes through a full open and close movement.

 

I took my roof platform off (Rhino rack 3/4 platform mounted to RTL600 QR towers) and noticed that stock roof rail at the driver side rear end was loose. The M6 torx nut broke. I tried to drill out and retap the M6 hole to no avail. I then realized the M6 torx nut threads into a M10 roof bolt mounted to the roof itself.
Parts number needed:

AYR500061 M10 stud bolt (sold individually, 6 required for short length rails, 8 for long rails)

VUB502870 Roof rail mounting hardware kit (M6 torx head bolt, set of 6 are in the kit).

DBD500020PVJ Roof rail cap. (Not really needed but may affect the aerodynamics along the roof line if not installed. ) Sold individually

 

I have a rack and have thought about not putting AYR500061in the setup at all and just using larger hardware to mount the rack. Those are too thin, as you found out.

 

the M6 is thin for the rail mounting to roof hardware M10. One can increase the bolts surface area and eliminating the M6 Torx bolt, by using a M10 button head hex head bolt 25mm length and using a M10 nut against the roof body and the underside of the roof rail. Then directly screwing the M10 button head bolt through the rail and M10 nut. But I thought about something sturdier and closer profile than the rail to attach the platform. Something custom type towers.