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I'm trying to decide which front shocks to put on Myrtle's sagging front end.
I first bought the Terrafirma TF178 w/ +3” four way adjustable shocks.
Then I found these new and cheap, Fox 2.0 Performance series 985-24-127 w/ +2” shocks.
Last edited by JUKE179r; Mar 20, 2018 at 12:13 PM.
You need new coils to fix sagging, not shocks? Both those shocks look nice though! Has anyone had regular TF all terrain shocks and then switched to one of those? Notice any difference?
My old OME set up isn't holding up anymore so I really need both for the front. Shocks and soon RTE springs. My front end is loaded down with steel bumper, winch, aluminum steering guard and steel rock panels.
My old OME set up isn't holding up anymore so I really need both for the front. Shocks and soon... RTE springs. My front end is loaded down with steel bumper, winch, aluminum steering guard and steel rock panels.
Gotcha. My front 3” rte springs are working great, no sag. The rears however are sagging 1-1.5”, within a month of installing. That’s with d1 spring seats, too.
Installed a new wheel hub, CV joint, and oil seal for the front left. Job was way easier than I thought it would be... no fuss, took a couple hours. FYI new hub nuts are 36mm, whereas original nuts are 32mm, so make sure you have a 3/4" drive socket set ahead of time.
Jeff, are you going to seperate the hub? Because, without the center nut, it will come apart...the large center nut (that goes on axle shaft) is what holds the two portions together. If you plan on using the whole hub assembly, you'll have to weld the outer flange to the inner hub bearing housing. But, I like the idea of using it...good thinking.
Jeff, are you going to seperate the hub? Because, without the center nut, it will come apart...the large center nut (that goes on axle shaft) is what holds the two portions together. If you plan on using the whole hub assembly, you'll have to weld the outer flange to the inner hub bearing housing. But, I like the idea of using it...good thinking.
Brian.
The studded hub piece should separate from the bearing housing, then a short tube of steel welded to the backside to accommodate the backspacing. And throw away the heavier bearing housing portion.
The studded hub piece should separate from the bearing housing, then a short tube of steel welded to the backside to accommodate the backspacing. And throw away the heavier bearing housing portion.
Two thumbs up!
That was what I was getting at, were both on the same page.
