The '94 I picked up in May back in So Cal with 105K miles was having overheating issues a few weeks ago. Shop did the chemical test in the coolant, came back negative. Did a leak-down test just to be sure, and cylinders 2, 6, and 8 failed, so it needs head gaskets. Told the shop we're not going to fix it (estimate was $2045), and it's going on Craig's List. Wife should be able to drive it the 2-3 miles back home and park it in the driveway.

Nice while it lasted...hope my '99 here in VA doesn't have any catastrophic failures like that, especially with 153K miles and after all the money I've already sunk into it!

 

DIY head gasket will run about $6-700 for parts and machining the heads. 12hrs of time if you're good, more if you've never done one.

 

Since I'm out in VA and the truck's in CA, and I don't have tools, or the experience, that'll never happen. I envy guys that have the knowledge, tools, and experience to do something like this. That's one service robots will never replace, lol!

 

The RAVE and "In Search of the Experience" DVD give you a step by step pretty much. But if you don't have the truck with you then that's a little tough.

 

If it can come to Vegas I can help.

 

I think every one of these engines eventually needs head gaskets cause the radiator goes bad, fan clutch goes bad, thermostat goes bad

I keep saying I had problems till I replaced the radiator, 185 thermostat , fan clutch

Rodding and such for me was a waste of $ better spent on a new radiator

Its almost like this should be the first things on the new to me d1 maintenance list

 

There is a lot of truth to that. I am going through all of this crap now. I picked up a used radiator and it's at the shop now. They said that the copper/brass unit is a better heat exchanger. I've read that here too. So I'm having it tanked, Rodded , and flow tested. Costing me 130.
They also said the core used on these trucks is not great. He said the tubes were small in diameter. Of course he offered to record the tanks with a more efficient core. ..to the tune of 400 bucks. Which makes me question all of his info.
I wondered if the aluminum is as good as the original brass one was when it was new.

 

My aluminum with plastic bowels works perfect, survives off road beating too where I had a few guys swear it would smash/crack from off road stress

Having larger tubes in the core is not a fix it allows the fluid to flow fast limiting heat exchange time like removing the thermostat

Having more tubes is better for more flow cause you are adding more volume flowing at normal speed and more heat transfer surface

My .02 rodding my brass was a waste of money, with the salt in the northeast it also eats the air fins leaving the tubes unsupported

It is not easy finding someone in my area to cook the rad n.j. dep regulations

 

I took a chance on an aluminum rad. Cools fine. Plastic tanks worried me until I saw how thick they were.

 

I drove it to work for the first time since Feb. Finally got around to replacing my bald A&* tires and in the nick of time. We received over 10 inches of rain in the Norfolk area last night and forded water up to my lights today. I don't think the little BMW would have survived.