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I hope I never have to use this thing, it looks sketchy as f***. I also bought the offroad-base and the lift-mate. I can see it being useful to lift the wheel up and put a maxtrax under it. I don't think there are any good spots to lift from on the frame/bumpers
Sir, I am just curious, what do you use your Disco for?
It has everything! lol
Nice ride too.
Hadnt touched the Disco in a while. Its been on hold on the trailer since it died in the 2nd test drive. Put a float charger on it last week. Went to my favorite and only local wrecking yard for some more Jaguar parts(!) and found a Disco there. asked the counter guy about it who said "The green one?" so I said, "No, it looked Red to me...." So. I pillaged a plastic gas flap hooker thing and a good license plate bracket. Both of which I immediately installed. Then last night I was allowed to order a crank position sensor. Reading the threads here it seems most likely a place to start as any, and its not Too expensive..... I may drag it off the trailer today if scheduling permits.
This past Saturday I pulled the front timing cover and oil pan getting ready for a new timing set and oil pump gears to arrive from AB. The oil pan had some sludge in the bottom. Oil pick up tube had some crusties attached to the screen. All cleaned up now. Still have to open up the oil pump and see if the gear is broken and how much scoring is in there. Fingers crossed I can drop in a new set of gears and go.
This past Saturday I pulled the front timing cover and oil pan getting ready for a new timing set and oil pump gears to arrive from AB. The oil pan had some sludge in the bottom. Oil pick up tube had some crusties attached to the screen. All cleaned up now. Still have to open up the oil pump and see if the gear is broken and how much scoring is in there. Fingers crossed I can drop in a new set of gears and go.
I've been avoiding this job. How long did it take to pull the pan and front cover? Any trouble spots? And what prompted you to do this? Was it to address oil leaks or is it preventative given the number of crack oil pump gears reported here and elsewhere? Thanks.
Both actually. I had some leaks, and wanted to rule out the pump being cracked. I also knew from years of working on "non-properly" maintained vehicles, that @ 160K miles, the chain was likely stretched enough to effect engine performance. Start to finish it took me about 2.5 hrs. BUT..... I already had the fan off for some other maintenance. So I'd say 3.5 hrs easily.
As I suspected the chain had about an inch of slack. My pump gears were not cracked so I have minimal scoring on the timing cover and plan to reuse it. I wasn’t seeing a low oil pressure issue before so I feel pretty confident I will be fine there.
I really didn't run into any issues to speak of… The oil pan will come right out after removing the cross member. Be sure to remove all the bolts on the pan. There are some that are not easily seen. I recommend you pressure was it best you can if you have mud or oil caked in there.
The harmonic balancer bolt and the fan clutch are the only issues I would see to be a possible problem. Luckily, I have a 36mm wrench for the fan clutch, and since the radiator was out, I could use my 1/2 inch impact to remove the bolt.
Transmission lines can be pushed out of the way but be careful not to lever them too far. Pretty straight forward job really.
I also went ahead and removed the front drive shaft for rebuild after I get the engine buttoned back up.
Fan wrench is not needed, the nut is wide enough that an adjustable wrench will fit.
Front crossmember does not need to be removed to get oil pan out. Just jack up frame, let suspension sag fully, support with jackstands (or risk truck crushing you), spin pan around backwards, and pull it down and out towards the driver side.
Crossmember bolts are apparently common to sieze
(mine are).
See pic, oil pan off, crossmember still on.
^^^^Do you have the jackstand under the tie rod bar?^^^^
If so, not good...if the weight of the vehicle was to suddenly drop on that setup...it would pop the socket part of the joint right off the stud/ball. Or bent the living daylights out of your tie rod bar...while the rest of the vehicle rest squarely on the ground...or you.
Steering linkages are not good safety support areas, frame or axles are normally your best bets.
^^^^Do you have the jackstand under the tie rod bar?^^^^
If so, not good...if the weight of the vehicle was to suddenly drop on that setup...it would pop the socket part of the joint right off the stud/ball. Or bent the living daylights out of your tie rod bar...while the rest of the vehicle rest squarely on the ground...or you.
Steering linkages are not good safety support areas, frame or axles are normally your best bets.
Brian.
Lol, no, it's not.
Look closely, you can see light between them.
I pushed it forward while I jacked it back up.
When I let it down, that's just where it was when I took the picture.
I had the jackstand under the I beam.
At the back of the I beam, and under the frame.
I had 4 jackstands under there.
And the jack barely touching the frame.
You can also see in the picture that nothing is supported, as the block of wood is crooked.
09-29-2017, 10:31 AM
