What did you do with your DII today?
#7281
I did Best4x4s PCV mod and replaced the rotted out airbox inlet hose on my 04 with a Carrs4x4 rubber hose. End result is a much quieter idle and what seems just a generally smoother engine performance.
Tomorrow I’m replacing the SAI filter with a K&N reusable filter ala JUKE179r. Just trying to keep her healthy and happy as long as possible!
edit: did the SAI, probably cut initial rocket ship noise in half. Great mod, I used my Dremel to grind off the post next to the air inlet tube to let the filter slip on
Tomorrow I’m replacing the SAI filter with a K&N reusable filter ala JUKE179r. Just trying to keep her healthy and happy as long as possible!
edit: did the SAI, probably cut initial rocket ship noise in half. Great mod, I used my Dremel to grind off the post next to the air inlet tube to let the filter slip on
Last edited by DCDisco2; 03-08-2020 at 07:12 PM. Reason: Adding results
#7284
Added a overflow catch bottle - temporary addition. I am going to obsess about coolant until I get the cooling system stabilized again.
Just making sure I do not have any more over pressure issues
I can examine the bottle after driving to make sure it is dry, I am not expecting any issues but I want to know.
Just making sure I do not have any more over pressure issues
- Clear Glass bottle
- Some fuel line
- Hose clamp
I can examine the bottle after driving to make sure it is dry, I am not expecting any issues but I want to know.
The following 2 users liked this post by Richard Gallant:
Sixpack577 (03-09-2020),
The_OGCJR (03-09-2020)
#7285
So after 220k miles, brake job and fluid flush, BOTH of my front brake hoses started leaking.
No idea why, but figured it was time to replace.
Stainless Steel lines front and rear and more flushing just because.
Used the ABS pump solenoid trick to flush then had my wife finish it off with pumping the brakes.
JB Kwik Weld on a very slow coolant overflow leak - one of the inner ribs/seams on the bottom was seaping - very slow - so far so good with the JB weld.
No idea why, but figured it was time to replace.
Stainless Steel lines front and rear and more flushing just because.
Used the ABS pump solenoid trick to flush then had my wife finish it off with pumping the brakes.
JB Kwik Weld on a very slow coolant overflow leak - one of the inner ribs/seams on the bottom was seaping - very slow - so far so good with the JB weld.
The following users liked this post:
Richard Gallant (03-09-2020)
#7286
#7287
I think I got my button from Lowes, Any on/off switch or button will do.
Key/ignition does NOT have to be on.
Remove ABS pump solenoid (RELAY is the right term) from engine bay fuse box and insert spade connectors as seen in the pic.
In normal brake bleed sequence, push the button to turn on the pump, crack the bleed screw open - bleed/flush - close bleed screw, turn off pump.
Move to the next wheel.......
Last edited by NewToTheTwo; 03-09-2020 at 02:26 PM.
The following 8 users liked this post by NewToTheTwo:
jastutte (03-10-2020),
JUKE179r (03-10-2020),
mollusc (03-09-2020),
Motoprophet (03-20-2020),
No Doubt (03-09-2020),
and 3 others liked this post.
The following users liked this post:
NewToTheTwo (03-11-2020)
#7289
I used about 20' or so of speaker cable for the wire since its what I had - spade connectors on one end and a button on the other.
I think I got my button from Lowes, Any on/off switch or button will do.
Key/ignition does NOT have to be on.
Remove ABS pump solenoid (RELAY is the right term) from engine bay fuse box and insert spade connectors as seen in the pic.
In normal brake bleed sequence, push the button to turn on the pump, crack the bleed screw open - bleed/flush - close bleed screw, turn off pump.
Move to the next wheel.......
I think I got my button from Lowes, Any on/off switch or button will do.
Key/ignition does NOT have to be on.
Remove ABS pump solenoid (RELAY is the right term) from engine bay fuse box and insert spade connectors as seen in the pic.
In normal brake bleed sequence, push the button to turn on the pump, crack the bleed screw open - bleed/flush - close bleed screw, turn off pump.
Move to the next wheel.......
Last edited by Davis31052; 03-11-2020 at 01:03 PM. Reason: n/m
The following 3 users liked this post by Davis31052:
#7290
My wife got sideswiped by an uninsured driver at the end of January, so new steel rear bumper, some body work, and a few new trim pieces are slated for install. Washed the Disco yesterday and installed the new Genuine tail lamp covers I picked up with the other parts. Was able to get the parts for the body shop at about $400 less than they quoted using Atlantic British and not going with the stock rear bumper that got torn up on the driver's side. This will also give me a chance to have the body shop touch up some paint imperfections on the hood and a minor scrape from a couple years back. Unfortunately I've got another three weeks to wait to get it into the shop. Planning to get an alignment done on it before then since the damage is centered around the driver's rear quarter/rear wheel.
Last edited by GreenKnight008; 03-15-2020 at 02:00 PM.