@flanker6 sounds like my list

• replace all rotors & pads
• replace rear transfer case seal
• replace the rubber donut on the drive shaft
• replace remaining 3 o2 sensors
• Tighten Y pipe bolts
• Remove spare tire, clean studs and add new anti-seize
• finally put new hood release cable
• fix lower right rear moulding and body work damage
• adjust rear bumper
• remove RTT and clean the roof

 

Before you go into a big panic regarding the battery drain. Clean your battery and alternator contacts. I had a bad ground (I think) on my ‘97 D1 on my alternator basically fell apart. Easy fix. Besides it was time to check the belt anyway.

 

@flanker6 if you have an ODB dongle pull it, I had an old one that would not sleep and drain my battery right down in 3-4 days max. Replaced and no issues since

 

Very Interesting. Sometimes the ultra gauge with be on when I get into the truck. "Scanning, scanning, scanning" forever.

Thanks for the tip.

 

Good call.

 

Finally installed my Rexypow snorkel that I had in storage for a few years. POR15'd the chassis and sliders. Replaced the front hubs.

 

I saw that and thought I had plenty of oil, but it took nearly every drop of that gallon. strange.

 

I gotta ask, how much does that weigh?

 

All that’s missing is a shovel and a pick axe.

 

Removed the passenger side bump guards and stock fender flares and started to sketch installing the +50mm flares.
Don't know the brand, was in the clearance section at lrparts.net

Got these as I thought they are a decent price, and they do not require cutting the body.
https://www.lrparts.net/lrc2277-disc...ial-offer.html
Specs say that now I can fit up to 31" tires with 2" lift. hmm.. I do have equivalent to 33" (255-85-16) in there with 3" lift and they fit just perfectly.

Is this the proper alignment for the rear. So that the flare sits on top of the panels on the gap?




That Gorilla tough and wide probably would hold them on better than the stock double sided tape that was very loose by now.