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It's the same key, I have more than one but only use the one key. It's a cheapo from Amazon, but the key I got with the LR3 didn't hold the settings either.
I will try my other key for grins, the key that will start the vehicle but won't lock or unlock it. Maybe I would have to break down and get a real LR key.
I had to remove the door panel, speaker, and release the window glass from the clips. I didn't remove the window motor like in the LR Time video. I just pushed it to the side. Then removed the door handle and lock mechanism like shown in the LR Time video. It wasn't hard but quite time consuming. It took about three hours total. Then I bent the metal door lock as shown in the Addicted Motors video. Now the door locks with the manual lock and the remotes. All fixed and now the alarm doesn't go off if someone opens the supposedly locked passenger door.
For giggles I tried my other key that I got from Amazon to see if I could change settings. Well, I did get the mirrors to dip in reverse but lazy entry still wont go away, enabled auto door locks and that didn't take, and that key starts the vehicle but won't remote lock or unlock.
It's not that big a deal but it could be a limitation of buying the cheap fobs. Glad I live in a low theft area and we don't take mine to the Big Smoke when we wander that way.
The key itself means nothing beyond security for starting and a code to ID which key is being used. All the setting are onboard. So if you have issues then it is a fault with a setting/prgraming in the truck and nothing to do with the fob itself. The button functions are separate. If the battery is dead, they will not work but since the security part does not use the battery it will still start the truck. I have seen a couple instances where bad programming of a key resulted in the remote functions not working, but 99% of the time the battery is no good. The cheap ones do not come with the circuitry for recharging the rob battery, so they dont last very long.
I am looking for answers about the unresponsive terrain response mode, as shown early in this video. The LR3 on 31s goes *almost* everywhere the LR3 on 37s does! And both trucks perform well in all these rocks, but why isn't it moving forward when in low range, rock crawl mode, DSC off, manual 1st gear?
Got one of four rear control arms installed. 215k miles of New England rust burned through 13 sawzall blades. Two of the three bolts came loose but the last one was not moving.
Any tips for me if the least accessible nut on top of the strut is rusted away? Access seems to be the main problem.
After a couple of overheating events attributed to blown head gaskets (oil in the coolant) and gaskets changed and head skimmed the engine over heated again.
I was topping up the coolant weekly about half a pint, but couldn't find a leak and there was no water in the oil or vice versa. When the engine over heated for the last time the mechanic pressure tested the heads and there was a crack in one of the heads between the water gallery and the spark plug chamber, the water was going out the exhaust!!!
Given the choice of dropping the engine and replacing the head i opted for a total replacement engine as i had no confidence in the original engine (state of rings, bearing and seals after over heating 3 times). The replacement engine has never been opened and he transferred the starter motor, alternator, ac compressor, plugs, injectors etc because they were either new or working well.
Cost difference between changing the head or the complete engine swap $250.
Done over 1500 KM this week so far so good I did put in some oil additive and getting a smooth sound plus14.5 L per 100 km
Finger crossed!!!
Replaced AMK Compressor, Air Reservoir, Front, Rear, & Reservoir Valve Block and 2 rear height sensors with harness connectors, reprogrammed and recalibrated
It only has 239,701 miles on it