You mentioned Canada, and the one thing we specialize in up here is snow and maybe fog.

I am a real fan of leaving the LR3 HSE headlights per the jpg pretty much the way Land Rover made them. The reason I say that relates to the colour of the lamp ight. LED's usually tend to be more blue than the 4300K spec HID (High Intensity Discharge D2S Xenon) lamps in our main beams. The attached 21 page Land Rover pdf has a pretty good explanation of the exterior lamps.

The blue in the LED bulbs tend to back scatter more, relative to the more yellow 4300K Xenon and hence the eye recognizes less, not more when the weather is less than perfect.Those who design illumination systems regard the 4300K colour as a good compromise to provide what is called definition. This is effectively the ability to actually determine what an object being illuminated probably is. The more blue colour bulbs, say 5000K and greater, result in a reduction in the ability to distinguish detail, (regardless of brightness), of the object being illuminated. Effectively, you can see the object but you cannot quite figure out what it is. This is because the more blue frequencies means there are fewer other frequencies of light that allow our eyes to actually define what an object really is.

This applies to clear conditions; for rain, dust, snow, fog, etc, then the yellow 3000K is preferable. More contrast is provided, and there is less back splash of light off the air particles.
Also our Land Rover LR3 HSE HID lamp design is both high and low beam together. Per the pdf, Land Rover calls the mechanism the shutter controller. The bulb does not move but a shutter within the assembly moves to effect the change from high to low beam. If the location of the filament in the bulb changes, the beam pattern changes, presumable for the worse. For this reason, I try to purchase brand name replacement D2S bulbs, rather than offshore manufacture and hope the shutter operation never quits.

The separate halogen bulb that is solely high beam, one can play around with that a bit as one does not drive on high beam in snow / fog as the illumination goes higher up and all one does is get a good view of snowflakes or fog particles. I say play around as what is usually doing is changing lamp colour. Again, more blue bad, closer to yellow good. At least when a LED lamp illumination location is different from the halogen, there will still be some light pointing forward rather than sideways, up or down.

Where you can have some fun is with your fog lights. For those, I removed the white halogen and installed yellow 55 watt PIAA H11 2500K halogen bulbs. I tend to have them aimed for the ditch as in the winter, that is where I do not want to be and when the ditches are drifted in, any light that direction is good. It also can help find drifted in snow covered curbs as well.

 

@bbyer What a fantastic response. Thank you so much for your kindness, mentorship, and clarity of thought and explanation. Is the color temperature why construction or road equipment use orange lights? To help other drivers anticipate them in all weather types? And I'm understanding more about why fog lamps are amber or orange, too. Ok, I'm off to read that .pdf! Thanks again!

 

Changed all the differential fluids. Engine oil and filter and spark plugs. Had to replace a rear wheel bearing and rear toe link rod. Changed out my short roof rail to a long rail.

 

That's a good bit of work to keep it road worthy! Looking forward to seeing you on the trails this year! I still haven't finished doing everything you taught me about last year...

 

Rebuilt the front and center valve blocks after some EAS issues, was getting the "suspension raising slowly" with corresponding error code and then code C11630-66. Swapped over my spare compressor so i could pin point the other problem, i had the 4x4 airseals seal kit sitting on the shelf for over a year after finding a leaking strut last year.
I borrowed a good working front valve block off a mate to rule that out but still got the code and occasional front suspension droop so spent Sunday arvo cleaning and rebuilding the blocks, the C11630-66 code has gone so was definitely the center valve block that was the problem.
I need to replace the desiccant in both compressors but not going to rebuild them since my original was rebuilt 5 years ago, looking on Amazon the desiccant beads are larger than what was originally fitted or comes in the rebuild kits.
Anyone found a source for the smaller diameter beads or used the larger type instead ?

Had a better look and found a 2lb jar on Amazon, says 2-4mm bead size and will be enough for 4 refills.

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0DZ6MF...sin_title&th=1

 

I've never had issues with the stock lighting and if i need more light to scan for rogue kangaroos,wombats or deer i have spots and a light bar. We wouldn't mind a bit of Canadian weather right now , its a scorching 41c today so stuck inside with the a/c on. I think its going to drop down to 28c overnight so not much of a reprieve .

 

Yes, our snow and cold kind of kills off a number of the nasty's, (keeps the bugs and snakes to a lesser level) hence winter does have some pluses.

I showed the picture of the sunlit snow scene in a previous post (2371 above) but when the actual snow is blowing down on you to ultimately make the nice jpg, the scene is not so much fun. Probably if I had my way, all main low beams would be yellow in colour the way it used to be in the EU. White seems to have taken over, but for snow or fog, yellow does not back scatter to the degree that white does. What is certain, is that low aimed beams is what one drives on; high beam or roof mounted white lamps effectively lead to driving blind.

The yellow front fog lights can be helpful in heavy snow as it makes it easier to aim the vehicle by gauging the center line thru the driver side window. Also the factory GPS works better than one might think as it can warn of the road curing etc - none of this is fun, but at least heavy falling snow keeps most small vehicles off the roads. I have used the GPS to follow a highway exit road, but that is not my idea of fun. At least the traffic is usually one way unless someone get mixed up.

The first jpg shows an illustration of the solenoid operated shutter within our headlamp assemblies that facilitates the high low beam pattern from a single D2S bulb. Basically the shutter just blocks off some of the light going to the reflector. The flat top of our low beams that keeps the illumination from rising is what assists our distance vision during snow storms.

 

Today I decided to change the Coolant Temperature Sensor, which took all of 30 minutes on the 2008 LR3. (L319)
It only has 262,268 miles on it

 

I am not certain which engine your SE has, but my HSE has the 4.4L V8.

I mention that as per the attached pdf, within the engine temperature system of the gasoline V8 and also other engines, TDV6 etc, there is a second temperature sensor that monitors oil temperature.

That sensor is located right beside the oil filter. The wiring from the sensor is also connected to the Denso Engine Control Module, same as the Coolant Temperature sensor. The ECM software combines the reading from the two sensors and that is what the engine panel temperature shows - a combo of the two readings.

The reason I mention this as if one is seeing odd readings on the panel temperature gauge, it could be the oil temperature sensor that is the concern.

 

Yes i learnt recently that the oil temp sensor in the sump (TDV6) serves 2 functions, one for the ECU and one for the temp gauge on the dash along with the coolant sensor.
I had some poor running and occasional limp mode episodes so i monitored the oil temp sensor in the Gap app and found it was erratic showing oil temps less than half of what it should be at operating temp.
Couldn't get a genuine on a weekend so got one from a wrecked Ford Territory (same 2.7 TDV6) and immediately improved running and trans shifting.