If you tighten it too much you will loose any self centering the box has and could cause excessive wear, you need to adjust it with both wheels up and once done up you back it off a little.

 

If you wrote anything else about your death wobble, I haven't followed it, but check your panhard rod bushings. If you grab your panhard rod and shake it as hard as possible, there shouldn't be any looseness in the bushings.

When I had violent wobble, it was because a panhard rod bushings were totally shot. When the bushings I replaced failed next (about 15k later), I could tell as soon as I noticed a slight right-left oscillating on the highway. At that point, there was just a few thou of loose play. I changed it, and it's straight and solid again.

I also had a steering box go bad, but that had a different failure mode. Yes, if it's loose the steering wheel will be loose, but in my experience it won't oscillate (wobble), it will just have slack in it. When mine failed, the steering would lock in a turn. You couldn't force it with all arm strength, unless you steered opposite first, and then back and it would snap. Fortunately, I'm not faint-hearted when it comes to things like that. No Rover driver should be. You have to be prepared for surprises, and adapting to quirks is a normal routine. The rebuilt steering boxes by Cardone are a good deal.

 

I got the JL1010 motor mounts installed on my D1, replacing broken stock ones. The passenger side was fully sheared, and the driver side about half-sheared. The JL1010 parts raised the engine a few mm and the fan blades were slightly scraping the upper shroud. It made a noise, but barely marked the shroud. I put some plastic spacers (zip ties) in the bottom brackets, and installed auto/marine weatherstripping around the perimeter of the shroud. This was enough to raise and offset the shroud so the blades would not strike it.

The JL1010 use 3/8x24 studs and does not come with nuts. I used thick, 3/8 hardened washers and lock nuts. The washers are important on the frame side since the holes are elongated slots as well as being oversized for M10.

There's a good write-up on D1 motor mount changes that advises using a jack on each side in turn and removing the mount on one side and dropping it to give more space to uninstall/install the mounts on the opposite side. That method worked fine. Nevertheless, I wouldn't say it was easy. Ratcheting 18mm wrench helped a lot with the stock nuts, 9/16 for the new nuts.

 

Yeah, I am chasing the death wobble. I will be ordering the panhard bushings and new tie rod ends this week. It seems that I read somewhere on this board about tightening up the set screw on the top side of the steering gear box. Last night after thinking about it, I remembered that I could look at my RAVE about it....So this weekend I will jack up the front end and really check out the backlash in the gearbox. Hopefully I havnt screwed anything up by just blindly tightening up that setscrew. Time will tell.....

 

Last weekend I took the ol girl a few hours north and tromped her through the woods. Only had to lock the t-case twice. That things a tank. I tried but couldn't get stuck. Only had two issues in four days of abuse, front left lug nuts came loose. No damage easy fix and after getting out of a particularly nasty spot, brake pedal went to the floor. It would hold pressure after a few pumps but in a few minutes went to the floor. No leaks, no fluid loss, passed visual inspection...I drove a few miles back to the cabin and pumped the brakes with the truck off till the pedal was so firm it barely moved. Again no leaks. And no issue since. 200 miles back home then to work today still working fine.

 

This month I've installed new brake rotors and pads, New BFG 265/75/16 KO2's and a Multifunction fuel relay.

 

It was a busy Saturday, wish it was more fun stuff. Rear brake rotors, pads, and bearings. Adjusted swivel preload and toe-out. Relocated steering damper to drag lonk. Added swivel lube. Greased driveshafts and changed rear diff oil. Replaced fuel filter.

 

Finished up my Saudi Grill and started to work on modifying the bumper end caps for more clearance....

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When was the last time you replace the brake fluid? I had a failure after coming down Pikes Peak, water gets sucked in and when it gets hot becomes steam and only the e-brake saved an accident. replaced the bleeds because they were rusted from the water condensing. Cheap fix if you were heating up the brakes.

 

Received 5 gallons of sticky, smelly goodness from Amazon.


So I changed the front diff and Transfercase oils.

Also jumped on the Amazon Subscribe and Save for 2 gallons of Rotella 15W-40 every 3 months. Works out to about $11.50/gallon, the cheapest I've seen.


Oh, and hacked off my rear step. The bolt was totally seized. Thanks to its awesome placement right next to the fuel tank I didn't feel comfortable with a grinder, sawzall, or plasma. So I just cut the actual support arm for the step.